【赫芬顿邮报 20130120】中国都市型男唤醒奢侈品市场
【中文标题】中国都市型男唤醒奢侈品市场
【原文标题】China's Metrosexual Men Revive Luxury Shopping
【登载媒体】赫芬顿邮报
【原文作者】Yimou Lee、Farah Master
【原文链接】http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2013/01/20/china-metrosexual-men_n_2517016.html
2012年6月30日，在巴黎举办的比利时设计师Kris Van Assche为迪奥品牌设计的2013年春夏男装展示会上，中国演员兼歌手黄晓明在接受拍照。
让我们听听男孩子们的想法。中国追求时尚的男人大量购买古驰和博柏利手袋，让世界顶级奢侈品的销量在下滑了几个月之后明显反弹，全球投资客对此大为吃惊。
据经纪公司CLSA提供的数据，在中国的奢侈品消费市场中，男性占55％，高于全球40％的平均水平。部分原因在于男性商人经常购买昂贵的礼物送给政府官员，作为巴结或者拉关系的手段。
销售奢侈服装和配饰的博柏利公司，在这种送礼文化，以及中国富裕男人追求高端服饰的环境中大为受益。但CLSA的研究报告还提出，这些公司的销量存在起伏不定的风险。因为在经济不景气的时期，男人不会像女人一样挥霍无度。
CLSA香港的消费者分析师Mariana Kou说：“男人不大容易冲动消费。当经济状况不明朗时，他们会耐性地等待。”
据咨询公司Bain & Co提供的数据，中国消费者的购买力占据了全球四分之一的奢侈品市场。去年，中国超过美国，成为世界上最大的奢侈品消费国。去年年中，中国的经济涨幅达到了三年以来的最低点，对奢侈品的购买需求大幅下降，对全球市场的影响达到2800亿美元。博柏利在7月份和9月份分别发布销售疲软的消息，引起整个行业的恐慌。
但是，在连续7个季度下滑之后，中国在去年第四季度经济增长了7.9％，奢侈品销量也随时反弹。博柏利称，上周亚太地区的销量比三个月前上升了15％，首当其冲的是中国和香港市场。其欧洲市场销量持平，美国市场仅上升了2％。博柏利的男装在2012年最后三个月的销量上升了50％，包括手袋在内的配饰销量上升了将近40％。在季度销售数据发布之后，博柏利的首席财务官Stacey Cartwright说：“我们对中国市场前景非常有信心。虽然很难预测每一个季度的数字，但这个季度销售的反弹让我们很受鼓舞。”
你好大客户
博柏利销量反弹让其高端同行品牌也有所收益。道琼斯奢侈品指数在上周上升了2.1％，今年共上升了6％，是2013年MSCI全行业股票指数的一倍。中国的经济复苏振兴了整个行业。
上周，提着带有路易威登、爱马仕、古驰、普拉达和其他奢侈品牌标志的购物袋的顾客，成群结队地出现在香港和澳门的商店外，这是中国大陆富人最喜欢的购物目的地。
私人助理大飞跟在他老板的后面——一位蒙古房地产商人，提着在中国赌博之都的高档商店中购买的爱马仕和高田贤三。他的老板穿一条橙色的裤子和一件黑白相间的衬衫，正在高田贤三商店里点货。大飞说：“他什么都喜欢，尤其是爱马仕和古驰。”
在澳门永利赌场内的古驰商店里，4个男人围在一个皮质钱包的玻璃展柜旁，另外7个男人在看一款标价6000澳元（750美元）的背包。同时间店里只有两个女人，其他顾客都在商店外排队等候安检。
代表大会之后的狂欢
目前看来，奢侈品销售在今年第一季度还会保持强劲的势头。主要原因是2月份的农历新年，和3月份的人民代表大会。政府的调子定下来之后就该送礼了。
作为最受中国大陆富人欢迎的购物胜地香港，有数据显示零售业开始复苏。销售额在11月份上升了9.5％，其中珠宝、手表和其它奢侈品销量在10月份下降2.9％之后，11月份上升了13.7％。据旅行走业提供的数字，11月份有大约300外中国大陆人进入香港，比去年同期多30％。澳门的数字相形见绌，只上升了3％、150万大陆游客。
但是鉴于北京出现打击腐败的迹象，观察人士认为，在2008年全球金融危机之后，中国或许不会延续这种爆发式的奢侈品消费模式。在10月份的党代表大会期间，中国消费者尽量减少了消费，等待新领导人就位。所以，11月香港强劲的销量或许仅仅是被抑制的购买力的释放。
推出年度中国富豪榜的胡润报告调查结果显示，在打击腐败行动之后，名表和酒类奢侈品所受的影响最大。消费者变得越来越挑剔、老练，更加钟情于那些低调的奢侈品，比如路易威登。但中国毕竟是个13亿消费者的大市场，其中很多人依然喜欢高调彰显身份的昂贵品牌，因此它在奢侈品消费市场还会保持迅猛发展的势头。
上海Mintel专门从事中国消费者行为研究，其首席中国市场策略师、作家Paul French说：“奢侈品的购买意愿非常强烈，包含从古驰到宝缇嘉的各类品牌。我认为销量有所下滑的唯一原因是，礼品市场，也就是腐败市场在去年表现疲软，因为人们不知道该给谁送礼。”
原文：
Chinese actor and singer Huang Xiaoming is pictured before the start of the men's spring-summer 2013 fashion collection show of Belgian designer Kris Van Assche for the label Dior, on June 30, 2012 in Paris.
HONG KONG/MACAU, Jan 21 (Reuters) - Let's hear it for the boys. China's fashion-forward men are snapping up Gucci and Burberry bags, driving a rebound in the luxury market months after a slow down in spending by the world's biggest luxury goods buyers spooked global investors.
Men account for about 55 percent of China's luxury goods market, well above the global average of 40 percent, according to research from brokerage CLSA, partly because businessmen often buy expensive gifts to curry favour with government officials or potential associates.
Companies such as Burberry Group Plc which sell luxe clothing and accessories benefit from this gift-giving culture, and wealthy Chinese men's penchant for designer ware.
But they are also at risk of big sales swings because men are less likely than women to splurge on discretionary purchases in times of economic uncertainty, CLSA's research shows.
"Men are not prone to impulse shopping," said Mariana Kou, CLSA's consumer and gaming analyst in Hong Kong. "They tend to wait a little if the economy is pretty uncertain."
Chinese shoppers account for one-fourth of all luxury purchases globally and last year surpassed U.S. consumers to become the world's top spenders on luxury goods, according to consulting firm Bain & Co.
When China's economic growth slowed to a three-year low in the middle of last year, luxury demand dropped suddenly, sending shudders through a global market worth $280 billion last year according to Bain's estimates.
Burberry warned of weak sales in July and again in September, sparking fears of a sector-wide slump.
But as China's growth picked up to 7.9 percent in the fourth quarter after seven straight quarters of slowdown, sales rebounded. Burberry said last week its Asia-Pacific sales rose 15 percent in the three months to December, led by China and Hong Kong, while its European business was flat and the Americas up just 2 percent.
Sales of men's clothing were up more than 50 percent over the final three months of 2012, Burberry said, and men's accessories such as handbags rose nearly 40 percent.
"We remain very confident about the growth prospects for the China market generally," Burberry's Chief Financial Officer Stacey Cartwright said after the quarterly data was announced.
"Specifically quarter by quarter it's always difficult to call. We are encouraged by the rebound that we've seen in this quarter," she added.
HEY BIG SPENDER
Burberry's bounce-back lifted the shares of its high-end peers. The Dow Jones luxury index rose 2.1 percent last week and is up 6 percent so far this year, double the 3 percent rise in the broader MSCI world equity index in 2013. China's economic revival may help lift the sector further.
Just last week, customers toting paper bags bearing the logos of Louis Vuitton, Hermes, Gucci, Prada and other global luxury brands were out in force at malls in Hong Kong and Macau, two nearby destinations for wealthy mainland Chinese shoppers.
Personal assistant Da Fei trailed behind his boss, a real estate businessman from Mongolia, carrying items from Hermes and Kenzo through the upscale One Central Macau shopping centre in China's gambling capital.
"He likes to buy everything, particularly Hermes and Gucci," Da Fei said as his boss, decked out in salmon pink trousers and a black and white shirt, browsed inside a Kenzo store.
At the Gucci store in Macau's Wynn casino, four men clustered around a glass counter examining leather wallets, while seven other men browsed items such as the 6,000 patacas ($750) shoulder bags. Only two women were in the shop at the same time, while other customers queued up outside, waiting for security guards to let them in.
PARTY ON POST-CONGRESS
Luxury looks like it could stay strong through the first quarter, largely due to the Chinese New Year celebrations in February and then the National People's Congress in March, where government positions will be confirmed - and gifts bestowed.
Data from Hong Kong, a popular shopping destination for wealthy mainland Chinese, shows retail sales are starting to perk up. They jumped 9.5 percent on the year in November, with jewellery, watches and other valuables up 13.7 percent after a 2.9 percent decline in October.
About 3 million mainland Chinese visited Hong Kong in November, up 30 percent from a year earlier, according to the tourism board. Macau's numbers paled by comparison, with a 3 percent rise to 1.5 million mainland visitors for the month.
But with Beijing cracking down on corruption, retail watchers caution that China may not deliver the explosive growth that made it a vital market for luxury brands after the global financial crisis in 2008.
Chinese buyers backed away from buying bling before the once-a-decade Party Congress in October, when new leadership was announced, so the strong November figures from Hong Kong may reflect a burst of pent-up demand.
Sales of watches and pricey liquour took the biggest hit after the corruption crackdown, according to a survey from the Hurun Report, known for its annual China Rich List.
Consumers are also becoming more choosy and sophisticated, preferring more inconspicuous luxury goods to logo-centric names such as Louis Vuitton.
But with 1.3 billion consumers, many with a strong inclination for expensive brands that scream status, China remains a driving force in the luxury market.
"The intention to purchase is very high right across the board, from Coach to Bottega Veneta," said Shanghai-based author Paul French, chief China market strategist at Mintel, which specialises in Chinese consumer trends.
"I think the only reason there was a dip was because the gifting market, the corruption market was of course weak last year because you didn't know who to buy for."
支持政府加大反腐力度。。。 所谓“贵族”不是贴标签的，而是制造玩弄标签的，就像给狗狗扔出的飞盘，这是有点钱的屌丝们永远理解不了的。。。;P
这些二货，啥时候能将草鞋穿出水晶鞋的派头就不再是二货了。。。 去看了下 评论里有好多反中国的。。有个人说什么西方的媒体怎么不报导中国挨饿的小孩而报道这个什么的 :L
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