本帖最后由 rlsrls08 于 2009-3-14 01:15 编辑
【原文标题】A long road to freedom for Tibet's exiles
【中文标题】西藏流亡者漫长的自由之路
【登载媒体】澳大利亚悉尼先驱晨报, Sydney Morning Herald
【来源地址】http://www.smh.com.au/world/a-long-road-to-freedom-for-tibets-exiles-20090313-8xu5.html?page=-1
【译者】rlsrls08
【声明】本译文版权归Anti-CNN及译者所有，未经许可，切勿转载
A long road to freedom for Tibet's exiles
Matt Wade in Dharamsala
March 14, 2009
Following the path of the Dalai Lama...(from left) Baden,Tashi Tsering and Jampa Tsering.
Photo: Matt Wade
[size=1.2em]FIFTY years ago a young man named Lhamo Thondup eluded Chinese troops and fled his home in Tibet for a new life in India. That man, better known by his religious name, the Dalai Lama, went on to become one of the world's best-known political exiles. He marked the anniversary of his flight from Tibet this week with a feisty speech accusing the Chinese Government of creating "hell on Earth" in the province it occupied in 1950.
[size=1.2em]Tens of thousands of his followers joined the Dalai Lama on his flight to India in 1959. Tibetans are still following in the footsteps of the young monk, making the dangerous trip from Tibet to India in search of opportunity and freedom.
[size=1.2em]One of them is 19-year-old Baden. He recently ran the gauntlet with two friends, Jampa Tsering, 26, and Tashi Tsering, 23, to Dharamsala, the Indian hill station that has been home for the Dalai Lama since 1960.
[size=1.2em]The trio left their village in rural Tibet and travelled to the capital Lhasa, where they found a Tibetan exporter who sells Chinese car parts to Nepal as well as smuggling refugees across the border. Baden and his friends each paid the man 8000 yuan ($1800) to get them out of Tibet - a fee they had been saving for more than two years.
[size=1.2em]After being hidden in a vehicle under boxes of spare parts, they headed south towards Nepal. The danger started well before they reached the border, when the trader's vehicle was stopped and searched at three check posts by Chinese guards. The guards shone torches inside the vehicle and opened a few boxes but Baden and his friends were not found.
[size=1.2em]"We were very afraid when they were checking, because if we were caught we would have been sent to prison," he says.
[size=1.2em]At the town of Zham, where a swirling Himalayan river marks the Tibet-Nepal border, the refugees were kept in a safe house until another "guide" took over.
[size=1.2em]The bridge that links Tibet and Nepal near Zham is heavily guarded, so in the dead of night Baden and his friends were taken several kilometres upstream to a spot where the river valley is very steep. With the help of contacts on the Nepali side of the valley, a rope was hitched between two trees across the river and the refugees pulled themselves, hand over hand, across the swirling waters.
[size=1.2em]"Crossing that river was not easy because if it went wrong we could have drowned … the current was too strong to swim," Baden says. "But we were rejoicing when we made it across, because we had left the Chinese behind."
[size=1.2em]They were taken to Kathmandu, where they registered as refugees, and, after a month in a camp there, they travelled to Dharamsala, dubbed "Little Lhasa" because it hosts the Tibetan government-in-exile and thousands of Tibetan refugees.
[size=1.2em]The trio are staying at Dharamsala's refugee reception centre, run by the government-in-exile. About 60 young men were living at the simple dormitory last week, waiting for permanent accommodation. Tibetan refugees must be issued with a special registration certificate from the Indian Government to stay in the country.
[size=1.2em]Baden misses his family back in Tibet but has no regrets about his move.
[size=1.2em]"There is no freedom for us there in Tibet and we always feel pressure from Chinese authorities," he says. "My family are relieved I am here and proud that I have come, because they believe I will have a better life."
[size=1.2em]Tibetans are made to feel like second-class citizens in their own land, Baden says. "They are not giving respect to Tibetan language and culture. If you can't read and write Chinese, you are looked down upon."
[size=1.2em]Baden, Jampa and Tashi all say life has been more difficult for Tibetans since protests a year ago turned violent and were brutally repressed by Chinese paramilitary forces.
[size=1.2em]Baden said relatives and friends took part in protests and some were put in prison.
[size=1.2em]"Tibetans have been under much more pressure since last March," Jampa says. "There are many more troops around and they are much more heavily armed. If you are Tibetan, they are always checking your papers. They want to know everything about your personal life."
[size=1.2em]Like all Tibetan refugees who arrive in Dharamsala, Baden, Jampa and Tashi will have an audience with the Dalai Lama.
[size=1.2em]"Back in Tibet we are not even supposed to keep a photo of him, so it will be like a dream come true to see the Dalai Lama in real life," Baden says.
[size=1.2em]Baden and his friends are convinced their lives will be much better in India. However, there are thousands of Tibetans who dream of a journey to where Baden and his friends have just escaped.
[size=1.2em]Chime Youngdung, 33, is the President of the National Democratic Party of Tibet, one of the many organisations in Dharamsala promoting the cause of exiled Tibetans.
[size=1.2em]As with many Tibetans living there, he was born in India and has never set foot inside Tibet.
[size=1.2em]Last June, following the unrest inside Tibet, he joined a group of activists trying to enter Tibet from India to stage a protest. They planned to raise the Tibetan flag and sing the national anthem on Tibetan soil. Indian border guards prevented them from getting across the border but Chime says the trip was worth it.
[size=1.2em]"I saw Tibet and I drank the water running from its mountains," he says. "Returning to Tibet is like a dream for me."
[size=1.2em]However, Chime's dream is a long way from becoming reality. Talks between the Dalai Lama's emissaries and the Chinese Government collapsed last year and have not been revived. There is no sign that the Chinese Government has moved any closer to considering the "meaningful autonomy" for Tibet which the Dalai Lama requests. Within hours of his commemorative speech this week, Beijing accused the Dalai Lama of telling "lies" and the state-run Xinhua news agency published a commentary saying the Dalai Lama was "a kid trying to draw attention from other people by crying".
[size=1.2em]It seems Tibetans will be making the treacherous journey to Dharamsala for some time yet.
西藏流亡者漫长的自由之路
马特韦德在达兰萨拉报道
2009年3月14号
图片说明:跟随达赖喇嘛的足迹 ... （左起） 巴登，扎西次仁和强巴次仁。 摄影：马特韦德
50年前，一个名叫拉木登珠的年轻男子躲避中国军队，逃离西藏家园，来到印度开始了新的生活。 大多数人更熟悉这名男子的教名: 达赖喇嘛。他后来成为了世界上最知名的政治流亡者。本周他愤怒地指责中国政府自从1950年占领该地区以来形成了“人间地狱”。
在1959年数以万计的信徒跟随达赖喇嘛逃往印度。如今藏人仍然踩着年轻僧人的脚印，展开从西藏到印度的危险之旅,寻找机会和自由。
其中之一是19岁的巴登。最近，他与两个朋友，26岁的强巴次仁和23岁的扎西次仁，逃到达兰萨拉，这个印度山区自1960年以来成为达赖喇嘛的家。
三人离开他们在乡下的家，前往西藏首府拉萨，在那里他们找到了一个西藏出口商人，商人向尼泊尔出售国产汽车零件，同时走私难民越过边境。巴登和他的朋友们支付了每个8000元（$1800美元）的费用，帮助他们逃离西藏。这笔费用是他们两年多的积蓄。
他们在被隐藏在一辆汽车里装着汽车零件的箱子下面，向南开往尼泊尔。没到边境危险已经开始，汽车三次在检查站被中国警卫拦截和搜查。警卫用手电筒照了照车内，开了几个箱子，但巴登和他的朋友们都没有被发现。
“他们检查时我们非常担心，因为如果被发现，我们会被送往监狱。”他说。
在Zham镇，一条蜿蜒的喜马拉雅河流划分西藏和尼泊尔，难民待在一个安全的家里，直到另外一个“向导”来接管。
靠近Zham镇连接西藏和尼泊尔的桥戒备森严，因此在夜深人静时，巴登和他的朋友们被带到上游几公里的地方，这里的河谷非常陡峭。在另外一侧尼泊尔同伴的帮助下，一条绳子拴在河两边的树上，难民拉着绳子，手牵手，淌过湍急的河水。
“过河不容易，因为如果出错我们可能会被淹死，水流太急了，没法游泳。”巴登说。 “但是，过河时我们非常高兴，因为我们离开了中国。”
他们被带到加德满都，做了难民登记，在那里的营地呆了一个月之后，他们前往达兰萨拉。达兰萨拉称之为“小拉萨”，因为那里有西藏流亡政府和数以千计的西藏难民。
如今三人住在达兰萨拉流亡政府办的难民接待中心。上周大约60个青年男子住在简易宿舍里，等待永久居所。西藏难民必须得到印度政府发的一个特殊登记证书才能在该国居留。
巴登想念他远在西藏的家人，但对自己的决定并不后悔。
“我们在西藏没有自由，我们总感到来自中共当局的压力，”他说。“我在这里，我的家人感到宽慰，而且为我自豪，因为他们认为我将有一个更美好的生活。”
巴登说:“藏人在自己的土地上感觉象二等公民，他们不尊重西藏的语言和文化。如果你不能读写中文，你就被瞧不起。”
巴登，强巴和扎西都说自从去年的抗议变成暴力，被中国军队残酷镇压之后，藏人的生活变得更困难了。
巴登说他的亲属和朋友参加了抗议活动，其中一些人被关进了监狱。
“自去年3月以来藏人受到更多的压力，”强巴说。“周围有更多的部队，他们更加全副武装。如果你是藏族，他们总是检查你的文件。他们想知道有关你个人生活的一切。 ”
像所有抵达达兰萨拉的西藏难民，巴登，强巴和扎西将有机会与达赖喇嘛见面。
“在西藏我们甚至不允许有他的照片，因此在现实生活中见到达赖喇嘛等于梦想成真。”巴登说。
巴登和他的朋友们相信，他们在印度的生活将更美好。然而，仍有数以千计的西藏人梦想着跟巴登和他的朋友一样开展逃亡之旅。
33岁的编钟央登是"西藏国家民主党"的主席，"西藏国家民主党"是达兰萨拉促进流亡藏人事业的很多机构之一。
正如很多生活在那里的西藏人一样，他出生于印度，从未到过西藏。
去年6月，跟随西藏境内的动乱，他加入了一批积极分子，试图从印度进入西藏策划抗议。 他们计划在西藏的土地上挂西藏国旗和唱国歌。 印度边防军阻止了他们跨越边界，但编钟央登说，此行是值得的。
“我看到了西藏，我喝了山上流下的水，”他说。 “回到西藏就像是我的一场梦。”
然而，编钟央登的梦想要成为现实将是一条漫长的道路。 去年达赖喇嘛的特使和中国政府的会谈失败了，至今还没有恢复。 没有任何迹象表明中国政府进一步考虑如达赖喇嘛所要求的，给予西藏“真正的自治”。 本周他发表讲话几个小时后，北京指责达赖喇嘛撒谎，国家官方新华社发表评论说，达赖喇嘛“像孩子一样用哭喊来提请他人的注意。”
看起来，藏人逃往达兰萨拉的危险旅途还得持续一段时间。 |
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发表于 2009-3-14 01:13
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