|
|
本帖最后由 j小蜜蜂 于 2009-3-23 13:57 编辑
【原文标题】Princesses Preen in a Pauper Economy
【中文标题】经济危机中的日本时尚女孩
【登载媒体】Time
【来源地址】http://www.time.com/time/world/article/0,8599,1876620,00.html
Princesses Preen in a Pauper EconomyBy Michiko Toyama Tuesday, Feb. 03, 2009
Keiko Mizoe, 24, works at Jesus Diamante's Shinjuku store. The fashion brand requires its sales clerks to model its wares
Michiko Toyama for TIME
The three girls walking down Meiji Street in the heart of Tokyo's Harajuku district are talking loudly in cute high voices, sometimes breaking into giggles. They could be any group of teenage girls on a merry shopping expedition in the Japanese capital's mecca of youth fashion — except for the fact that they are clad in clothing and accessories that mimic the look of comic-book heroines wearing the style of 18th-century princesses.
东京中心的原宿区，三名女孩正走在明治道上，她们大声而可爱的谈论着，而且不时的爆发出一阵咯咯的笑声。在日本首都的时尚圣地，她们与其它快乐着行进在购物街上的女孩子一模一样。唯一区别是，在衣服和饰品的打扮下，她们活脱的像一个个漫画里穿得像那18世纪公主们一样的的女主公。
My father asked me, 'Where on earth are you going in that?' " says Mayuka Watanabe, laughing. She is a 17-year-old high school student sporting a headband with a big ribbon and three pink roses. Her friend Miki Takahashi, 18, who takes her fashion inspiration from Cinderella, adds, "People look at me and sometimes even point a finger at me. Once a little kid on the train looked at me and exclaimed, 'Look, there is a fairy!' which was kind of embarrassing, but I didn't care because I just wear what I like." Sanae Nagamine, a 21-year-old waitress from Hitachi in northeastern Ibaraki prefecture, had to take a two-hour train ride to join her friends on this pilgrimage to Jesus Diamante, one of the first fashion brands to promote hime-kei, as the look is known, with its frilly pastel frocks and ringlet hairdos. With money earned from part-time work, the girls plan to shop for two hours at the brand's Harajuku store before heading to its Shinjuku branch. "I love their design. It amps me up!" enthuses Nagamine. (Watch TIME's video "Princess Fashion in Tokyo.")
“爸爸经常问我，‘ 你穿着那东西到底想要去哪？’ ”mayuka watanabe笑着道。这名17岁的高中生在她的头带上别了一条长长缎带和三朵粉红色的玫瑰。她的朋友，18岁的Miki Takahashi，则在灰姑娘上寻找她的时尚灵感，她补充到“人们经常盯着我看，有时甚至直接指着我。有一次在火车上，一个小孩看着我大叫‘看呐，这有一个仙女！’这真让人很尴尬，但是我不在乎，我只是在穿我所爱。”Sanae Nagamine,一名日立公司的21岁女招待，因为家住茨城县的东北部，她必须坐两个小时的火车去与她的朋友碰头，然后再一起满怀欣喜的去Jesus Diamante——最先推广hime-kei风格的时尚品牌之一，就像大家知道那样，hime-kei有着各种各样的彩色褶裙和卷发发型。女孩们计划先在原宿的品牌店中选购两个小时，再去新宿的分店看看，而这全部花销，都来自她们平时的兼职。“我喜欢他们的设计，它让我感觉像触电一样！”Nagamine激动的说。
Hime-kei appears to have been inspired by American filmmaker Sofia Coppola's movie Marie Antoinette, with its lush rendering of the decadence of the court of Louis XVI.
Hime-kei的灵感来源于美国制片人sofia Coppola的电影《玛丽-安托瓦内特皇后》中对路易十六堕落宫廷的丰满刻画。
The rush of young Japanese women to emulate the look of 18th-century French aristocrats has grown from a fad into something of a movement, whose leader is the popular singer Ayumi Hamasaki. It even has its own magazine, Koakuma Ageha, with a circulation of 350,000. If Coppola's movie created the wave, Osaka-based Jesus Diamante was ready to ride it. Established in 2001, the label had offered luxurious clothing styled for a hypothetical heiress with a likeness to French actress Brigitte Bardot. But the impact of Marie Antoinette prompted it to introduce such lines as Marie Wanpi, with a ball gown sporting a large ribbon on the chest and a Cinderella coat with a fur collar and sleeve edges.
日本女人对法国贵夫人的模仿热已经从一种简单的流行时尚成长为一项运动，其中的代表人物就是流行音乐歌手——滨崎步。它甚至有专门的杂志，《Koakuma Ageha》，杂志有着350，000本的发行量。如果是Coppola的电影最先开启这项时尚的话，那么大阪的Jesus Diamante就是最先准备好弄潮儿。建立于2001年的Jesus Diamante，在其经营之初，主要客户是那些与法国演员Brigitte Bardot一样年轻漂亮的女巨额财产继承人，向她们销售奢侈的衣物。但是在《玛丽-安托瓦内特皇后》的影响下，他们推出了Marie Wanpi系列，一条舞会长裙，别一条长长的丝带，再加上一件有褶皱的领子和袖端的灰姑娘式上衣。
Takatoshi Imada of Tokyo's Institute of Technology, Value and Decision Science sees hime-kei as a response to an unsatisfying way of life. "The hime-kei girls removed the borders between the virtual and real worlds," says Imada, who believes the phenomenon is rooted in a rejection of the goals of advancement through hard work in an ailing market economy. "They longed for a different form of self-expression and sought a more meaningful way of life." Searching for meaning through the fashions of a doomed European aristocracy may be a form of protest against a business-driven contemporary Japanese culture, but it's certainly made healthy profits for the Jesus Diamante label. Today, the company runs four stores; by mid-2007 it had earned more than $14 million from selling dresses that run from $500 to $600 each and coats that cost up to $1,500. The average client spends $1,000 a month in support of her princess habit — but some spend as much as $4,000 a month. Most clients are girls in their teens to mid-20s, but there are some women in their 30s and 40s who wear the look. (See pictures of Japanese design's greatest hits.)
来自日本科技，价值和决策科学研究局的Takatoshi Imada则把hime-kei看做是一种对生活不满的表现，“这些hime-kei女孩，游走于虚拟和现实的世界中，”Imada认为这种现象的根源是，在衰退的市场经济中通过努力工作实现晋升的目标变得不切实际。“她们渴望用另一种方式表现自己，并找到一种更有意义的生活方式。”于是她们在过时的的欧洲贵族的风格中寻找着人生的意义，来反抗日本当今的商业文化。可是毫无疑问的是，她们给Jesus Diamante带来了丰厚的利润，现在，这家公司已经开设了四家店铺；在2007年的上半年，公司就已经赚到140多万美元，一条裙子的售价在500到600美元之间，一件上衣最高则可卖到1500美元。为了维持她们的公主梦，一般每个客户每个月都要花费1000美元，而有的人可以一个月花费掉4000美元，大部分客户是不超过25岁的小女孩，但是也有一些30，40岁的女人也喜欢这种打扮。
Customer loyalty comes easily in a fashion movement that can seem to border on a cult. The company requires its sales clerks to model its wares, both in stores and on its website, and that has resulted in some of its retail staff developing their own fan bases. Most popular among them is Keiko Mizoe, 24, a staffer in the Shinjuku store with the flawless complexion of a porcelain doll. "When people started to call me Princess Keiko, I didn't like it and didn't know what to do," Mizoe confesses. "But then I started to think that if others see me in that way, then I have to act my part." These days she regularly models for Koakuma Ageha and sometimes even appears on TV. "Every day I enjoy very much being a girl. I am just an ordinary girl who happens to be a princess. The world is my oyster. I am the luckiest girl alive," says Mizoe, who is wearing a pink frilly dress with a big flower accessory in her perfectly curled hair. "I always want to enjoy the princess fashion and wear pink no matter how old I get."
当一种时尚运动变得近乎于一种狂热的崇拜时，顾客很容易的就对产品产生了忠诚。由于公司要求，不管是在店里还是它的网站上，每个销售员都穿着本公司的商品。这样，一些销售员竟然渐渐的有了自己的一群粉丝。这其中最出名的要属Keiko Mizoe了，她是一名新宿店的24岁员工，有着与瓷娃娃一样完美皮肤。“当人们第一次叫我Keiko公主时，我并不高兴，甚至有点不知所措，”Mizoe坦白说，“但是我开始考虑，既然别人那样子定义我，我就只好演好我的这个新角色了。” 这些天里，她定期给《Koakuma Ageha》做模特，甚至会不时的出现在电视节目上。“每一天，我都在尽情享受着作一名女孩的快乐”, “我只是一个碰巧成为公主的普通女孩”, “全世界都是我的”, “我是当今世上最幸运的女孩”。Mizoe身穿着一条有摺边的粉红色连衣裙，还别了一朵大大的花在她那完美的卷发上，“我一直喜欢这种打扮，我会永远穿着粉红色裙子，一直到老。”
"Every little girl loves princesses. And any girl at least once pretended to be one and liked pink and frills," says Yuri Chinomi, a designer and managing director for Jesus Diamante. "I was so happy when I got a dress with frills bought for me, although I could wear it only on special occasions. There are definitely adults who still remember that kind of excitement. I want them to feel it again wearing our fashion."
“每个小女孩都喜欢公主。每个小女孩都至少假扮过一次公主，每个女孩都喜欢粉红的衣服，都喜欢有饰边的衣服，” Yuri Chinomi说，她是Juses Diamante的一名设计师兼常务董事。“在我小时候，每次有人给我买一件这种有饰边的裙子时，我都会很非常高兴，即使是只能在特殊的场合穿戴。现在一定有很多的成年人依然记着这种令人兴奋的感觉。我希望她们能够通过我们的衣服再一次的体验那份激动。”
Adds Takako Hosomi, president of Princess House Inc., whose clients demand that their living spaces be transformed to mimic 18th-century European palaces: "It's every girl's dream to wake up on a splendid canopy bed with a kiss from a handsome prince."
Takako Hosomi——princess house集团的董事长补充道“每个女孩都梦想着会有一个英俊的王子，在王子的一吻下，自己会在漂亮的天棚床上醒来。”他的很多客户都要求根据18世纪的欧洲宫殿来对她们的住所进行改造。
In Japan's depressed economy, "princes" who can offer their brides an aristocratic lifestyle are an endangered species. But like the entourage of Marie Antoinette, the hime-kei girls keep on spending as if they live in their very own bubble economy.
可是在日本经济低迷的情况下，能够为“公主”提供贵族般的生活方式的“王子”已经不多见了。但是就像玛丽·安托瓦内特的侍女，hime-kei女孩继续着不菲的花销，她们好像仍然生活在自己虚假繁荣的经济中。 |
|
狗仔卡
发表于 2009-3-14 20:35
提升卡
变色卡
抢沙发
千斤顶
显身卡
楼主
