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本帖最后由 小明啊 于 2011-10-17 12:28 编辑
【中文标题】“狗肉进驻约克郡中餐馆”——为何谣言蔓延？
【原文标题】'Dog meat at a Chinese restaurant in Yorkshire' – why do such myths spread?
【登载媒体】卫报
【来源地址】http://www.guardian.co.uk/commentisfree/2011/oct/15/chinese-restaurant-dog-meat-myth#start-of-comments
【原文作者】LiJia Zhang
【译者】小明啊
【翻译方式】人工
【声明】欢迎转载，请务必注明译者和出处 bbs.m4.cn。
The obsession with China's 'weird' food, from donkey penis to the mythical dog in the takeaway, is a form of racism
一直困扰大家的中国的那些奇怪的食物，从驴的生殖器到外卖的狗肉，这是种族歧视的一种形式。
I was not sure if I should laugh or cry when I heard the news that an urban myth about a woman choking on a dog's identification chip at a high-end Chinese restaurant in Yorkshire had led to an exodus of diners. Bizarre as the story sounds, it didn't surprise me. When I lived in Britain, I met people who refused to go to Chinese restaurants because they believed – they were utterly convinced in fact – that such places sold dog meat (and their neighbours' pets at that!). Racism takes all forms, and in the case of the Chinese, it often takes the form of disgust with the Chinese food.
Just last week, I saw another example of that when I watched the DVD of the first episode of the hugely popular travel documentary An Idiot Abroad, in which Karl Pilkington (the Idiot) is sent abroad to visit the New Seven Wonders of the World. The first episode is set in China. I did make me laugh – it is funny. But the sour smell of colonialism taints the programme. It dwells so much on the weird eating habits of the Chinese people: cicadas and worms at a Beijing night market, a long shot of a young woman stuffing scorpions into her mouth, Karl commenting on a man eating "foetus egg" and a family by the Great Wall killing and feeding him toads! (Bullfrogs actually.)
China has a fabulous and sophisticated cuisine, but westerners always focus on the tiny percentage of what we eat that is weird. And the very good reasons that the weird stuff made it into Chinese kitchens is never mentioned: Chinese cuisine is very much a famine cuisine; historically, Chinese people have had to make use every bit of available resources.
A few years ago, when the comedian Paul Merton came to China to make a travel documentary, I was invited to take part. As if by accident, Merton and I met at the night market – the same one Karl visited (the only market in Beijing if not the whole country where you can see such creatures sold as ingredients). I explained to him that the cicadas tasted of childhood for me because, to satisfy my craving for meat, I used to catch cicadas and roast them over a small bonfire and munch them up. Merton sampled the insects with disgust. Then I was instructed to tell him: "If you think this is disgusting, let me take you to somewhere interesting," before leading him, as pre-arranged by the director, to a penis restaurant, Merton and I actually walked up and down in the street, talking about serious matters – social change, women's role in society, and my own journey from factory worker to writer.
Merton was genuinely interested in learning more about China, but the director whisked us away to the restaurant where all sorts of animal's male organs were served. Eating animal's penis is thought by some to improve a man's performance in bed. But this is not something that runs deep in Chinese culture – there are only two penis restaurants in China, and both belong to the same owner. The crew spent hours tirelessly filming us eating stir-fried bull's penis, snake's penis in a soup and a large boiled donkey's penis. Poor Merton struggled and even threw up at one point.
In the final film, the donkey's penis dominates the scene. Our serious discussion was edited out.
当得知一个关于一位女士在约克郡的一家高级中餐馆用餐时被一块狗的识别芯片噎到的城市谣传时，我哭笑不得。这故事听起来太神奇了，这并没有令我吃惊。当我住在英国的时候，我认识很多拒绝去中国餐厅的人——他们极其相信——这些餐馆卖狗肉（有些甚至是他们邻居的宠物）。种族歧视，在中国以各种形式存在着，特别是经常以一些恶心的中餐的形式存在着。
就在上周，我看到了另外一个例子，就是当我在看一个广受欢迎的旅游类节目《外国笨蛋》（中译名为《卡尔世界七大奇迹漫游奇遇记》）的DVD时，主持人卡尔被送到国外去参观新的世界七大奇迹。第一集就是在中国。我看的很欢乐——因为实在很搞笑。但是殖民主义的酸味污染了这集节目，这里居住着这么多有着奇怪饮食习惯的中国人：蝉蛹和蠕虫在北京的夜市售卖，一位年轻女士试着把蝎子放入嘴里。卡尔遇见了一个吃毛蛋的男人，还有长城附近的一家人杀蟾蜍给卡尔吃（事实上是牛蛙）。
中国的食物十分的精美复杂，但是西方人总是关注着其中那些我们不吃的小部分奇怪的食物。一个绝佳的原因就是中餐馆在售卖这些奇怪的食物时，并不说明：因为中国有着饥荒史，所以他们在烹饪时不得不利用一切可以利用的资源。
几年前，当喜剧演员保罗莫顿去中国制作一档旅行纪录片时，我被邀请参加一部分节目的录制。偶然的机会，莫顿和我在卡尔去的同一家夜市（只在北京，而不是整个国家，你们可以看到这里售卖以动物为原料的奇怪食物。）我和他说在我童年的时候为满足我的好奇心曾经尝过蝉蛹的味道，我那时候捉了蝉蛹，把他们放在火上烤熟了，大嚼特嚼。莫顿试着尝了尝这些昆虫，并感到非常恶心。然后我奉命告诉他：“如果你认为这个令人感到恶心，那我带你去个好玩的地方。”带他去之前导演事先安排好的一家生殖器餐厅。莫顿和我实际上在大街上走来走去，谈些正经事——比如社会变迁，女性在社会中的角色，和我自己从工厂工人到专业作家的心路旅程。
莫顿由衷地有兴趣了解更多中国，但是导演撵我们去这家售卖各式各样的雄性动物生殖器的餐馆。大家认为吃动物的阴茎有助于提高自己在床上的能力。但这并不是中国的传统文化——中国只有两家这样的阴茎餐馆，而且老板是同一个人。摄制组不知疲倦的花了几个小时来拍我们吃炒牛鞭，蛇鞭汤，和一大条煮驴鞭。（还是用中国的说法比较文雅……终于不用直白的打出XX这两个字了）可怜的莫顿一直在挣扎，最终还是放弃了。
影片的的最后，驴鞭在画面中过于吸引别人的注意，经过我们认真地讨论，还是剪掉了这幅画面。
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狗仔卡
发表于 2011-10-17 12:27
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