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本帖最后由 woikuraki 于 2012-3-31 14:37 编辑
【中文标题】十大政客着装宣言
【原文标题】Top 10 Political Fashion Statements
【登载媒体】时代周刊
【原文作者】Glen Levy
【原文链接】http://www.time.com/time/specials/packages/article/0,28804,2103934_2103935_2103882,00.html
Rick Santorum的毛背心和他的参选活动一样引人注目。《时代周刊》带你了解一下他和其他著名政治人物的服装选择。
Rick Santorum的毛背心
“surge”这个词被用来形容宾夕法尼亚议员Rick Santorum成为民主党指派参与总统选举人的劲头，可是另一个S开头的词——毛背心——是否才真正是他这一年顺风顺水的原因呢？Santorum对毛背心的偏执在互联网推动下，刮起一股无袖上装之风。你可以看看推特上的@FearRicksVest、Facebook网页、Tumblr博客和YouTube上的视频，有无数不知名的人在兴风作浪。Santorum毫不介意坦言此事，他在接受《纽约时报》采访时说，事情起源于爱荷华。他在参加前阿肯色州州长Mike Huckabee主办的聚会时，没有身着传统的政治西装，毛背心的装束让他成为全场的亮点。问题是，他对毛背心的狂热能否转化为选票。
菲德尔•卡斯特罗的运动服
菲德尔•卡斯特罗，共产主义独裁者还是过气的田径明星？自从2006年他从手术中恢复后公开露面时，身着红白蓝阿迪达斯运动服开始，这位古巴前领导人就一直穿着运动服。而且，这位85岁、健康状况不容乐观的老人还开始选择其它品牌，比如斐乐、彪马和耐克——请允许我指出，在40年来与美国贸易禁运的背景下，古巴不允许销售耐克商品。卡斯特罗喜欢展示其在装着选择方面的运动倾向，并不意味着服装生产商会利用他来进行市场宣传。阿迪达斯公关部经理Travis Gonzalez在回答《纽约时报》有关卡斯特罗的服装问题时说：“这既非好事，也非坏事。我们是一个运动品牌，专门为运动员而不是国家领导人制作产品。”这并未阻止卡斯特罗在2011年4月公开露面，以辞去古巴共产党中央委员会总书记职务时，身穿蓝白色的斐乐运动服。
美国政坛中的所有男性
你肯定见过这副模样：整齐的白衬衫领口系紧、裁剪合身的深色西装、红色或蓝色领带打成温莎结、别着国旗领章。这就是西方政坛里每一个男性的装束，可以算得上是服装业的一项奇迹，通过统一的装束把能力、自信和服从的理念灌输到每一个人的脑海中。见过G-20峰会的照片吗，里面是两个女人、两个沙特阿拉伯国王和17个身穿这套行头的男人。当然，也有很多离经叛道的装束——Rick Santorum的毛背心、奥巴马的牛仔裤、克林顿的短袖衬衫，还有一位激情四射的领导人甘冒落为笑柄的风险。先生们，千万不要这样做。知道谁才会穿这些花哨的服装吗——女子摔角选手和独裁者。
金正日的卡其色狩猎装和墨镜
金正日喜欢好物件。这位死于2011年12月17日的朝鲜最高领导人是个电影迷，据说他有2万多部影片。他喜欢喝威士忌和红酒，当他的子民忍饥挨饿的时候，他却派厨师到全世界去采购美食。金也该换件新衣服了。几十年来，他一成不变的形象是难看的卡其色狩猎装、5英寸高的鞋跟垫起侏儒一般的身高，还有早已过时的巨大墨镜和近视镜。在他12月28日的葬礼上，灵车上放着这位独裁者巨大的照片，或许那些奉命列队哭泣的群众可以最后一次瞻仰敬爱领导人的风格。
吉米•卡特的羊毛衫
1977年2月2日，吉米•卡特在宣誓就任第39届总统的两个星期之后，在白宫西翼的书房中发表了一次围炉谈话。这位乔治亚州种植花生的农民利用电视网络的强大力量，“与国民保持密切联系，用非正式的方式让人们了解政府的计划”。
那天晚上，引起观众注意并不是卡特的讲话内容，而是他的穿着——一件松开纽扣的羊毛衫，为了是房间温度调低后保暖。《时代周刊》在那个月说这件羊毛衫“是承诺善用象征主义的政府最具令人回味的标记”。当今时代崇尚高度标准化的形象，所有政客的穿着都要经过严格审查，卡特与此不同，他只不过穿上一件在家吃晚餐的衣服。他问转播顾问他们觉得这件衣服如何，他们让他自己看电视屏幕。尽管卡特在执政之后几年里遇到了极大的困难，但早期的闪光点是真真切切的。一位共和党内部人士在接受《纽约时报》采访时说：“他就是老百姓，老百姓就是引领潮流的人。我实在不愿意承认，但纯粹从分析角度来看，我喜欢这件衣服。”
毛泽东的上装
他建立了一个国家，传播了一个思想，掀起一股狂热的个人崇拜，其教众让中国陷入红色恐怖——因此毛泽东当然也会引领一个时尚风潮。这件服装以中国革命家孙中山而得名“中山装”，毛在他30年执政期里，让这种四个口袋的宽松上衣回归到群众中，并因此而被称作“毛式服装”。尽管在中华人民共和国成立之后，这件衣服原始的含义是无产阶级大团结，但毛对其的钟爱赋予它全新的含义——至少在西方人看来是这样。今天，这种或蓝、或绿、或灰的服装被认为是共产主义和毛泽东的标志。毛在1976年去世之后，这样的衣服慢慢不时兴了。现在的中国领导人更多身穿西服，除了在国家重要庆典或者农村和年轻城市人身上，还可以见到。
贾瓦哈拉尔•尼赫鲁的上装
有些公共人物成功地推广了他们喜爱的服装，甚至还有人以自己的名字命名了这种服装。印度总理贾瓦哈拉尔•尼赫鲁就是其中一个，他正是从甘地（他的老师）手中夺取政权，成为自由印度的第一任总理。尼赫鲁装与众所周知的甘地的简朴服装风格迥异，它来自印度北部的achkan——一种领口封闭的外衣，通常被认为是印度贵族的宫廷装束。实际上，当这件衣服流传到西方之后，才得到“尼赫鲁”这个名字。这位富有魅力的印度总理在执政期间，利用各种公开场合让它广为人知。尼赫鲁并非身穿这件服装的唯一知名人士，它的美学内涵感染了甲壳虫乐队（希叶露天体育馆的演出中身穿类似服装）和Sammy Davis（译者注：美国艺人，擅于模仿名人），后者宣称拥有200件这样的衣服。
穆阿迈尔•卡扎菲的一切
穆阿迈尔•卡扎菲是一个穿着滑稽的暴君。直到他在2011年惨死，这个脾气古怪的自大狂统治了利比亚四十年，为他在利比亚民众间赢得了堂吉诃德式的称号“领袖弟兄”。他不但要为多年来所实施的酷刑、杀戮和恐怖策划行为负责，还应当为其在政治场合中古怪的着装受到谴责。挂满无数奖章的军装、翻领上贴着埃及革命的图片、印有埃及前总统纳赛尔头像的休闲装、宽檐的豹纹遮阳帽并且手握权杖、宽松肥大的巫师长袍。卡扎菲独裁下人民遭受了无数的悲剧，但怪异的着装风格将永远成为利令智昏的暴君的标志。
希拉里•克林顿的长裤
耐人寻味的棕色，大胆的红色还是迷人的粉色？有可能成为美国第一任女总统的候选人在竞选期间会穿什么颜色的衣服？如果我们不去关注这位有教养、政治嗅觉敏锐的人穿什么，那还有什么意思。2008年，极富声望的民主党总统候选人希拉里•克林顿用他标志性的长裤粉碎了时尚界的各种期望。她的着装宣言在全国范围内令人着迷、效仿。克林顿可以用衣橱中随便一套服装来回应媒体的评论，但她只是用简单的政界着装消除了压力——这其实是一套无懈可击的铠甲。
萨拉•佩林的眼镜
当萨拉•佩林在2008年竞选副总统职位时，这位独立党的竞选伙伴成为了共和党的甜心。无论男女都对她的能力和外表痴迷。但究竟是哪一点最让人们对佩林的学者形象着迷呢？她的眼镜。这位前阿拉斯加州长所佩戴的川崎和男镜架，是那一年最炙手可热的饰品。所有商家都忙着储存这款价值375美元的镜架。突然之间，近视和散光似乎变成了优点。
原文：
Rick Santorum's sweater vests have been getting almost as much attention as his campaign. TIME looks at his sartorial choices and other notable political fashion statements
Rick Santorum's Sweater Vests
The word surge has been used to describe the momentum that former Pennsylvania Senator Rick Santorum has gained in the race to become the GOP's nominee to take on President Obama. But could another S word — sweater — be the real reason that he's somewhat surprisingly in the running this election year? Santorum's penchant for wearing sweater vests has become a sleeveless sartorial slingshot thanks to the power of the Internet. To wit: the @FearRicksVest Twitter handle, Facebook page, Tumblr blog and YouTube video. While the campaign has been spearheaded by anonymous supporters, Santorum has been happy to address the matter, telling the New York Times that the phenomenon began in Iowa (which seems apt, seeing as he missed out on winning the caucuses there by only eight votes), when he rocked the sweater-vest look at an event hosted by former Arkansas governor Mike Huckabee. By opting against wearing the traditional political uniform of a dark suit, Santorum was certainly noticed. The question is whether that passion for vests can be turned into votes.
Fidel Castro's Tracksuits
Fidel Castro, communist dictator or washed-up track star? The former leader of Cuba has been seen in tracksuits ever since he was photographed wearing a red, white and blue Adidas version while recovering from surgery in 2006. Since then, the possibly ailing 85-year-old has expanded his athletic wear to include other brands, such as Fila, Puma and Nike — the last of which, may we point out, is barred from being sold in Cuba due to the 40-year-old U.S. trade embargo. But just because Castro likes to show his sporty side in his fashion choices doesn't mean that brands are apt to utilize the dictator in their campaigns. "It's not a positive, not a negative," Travis Gonzalez, head of Adidas p.r., told the New York Times when asked about Castro's clothing choice in 2006. "We are a sports brand. We are making products for athletes, we are not making them for leaders." That didn't deter Castro, who made a rare public appearance in April 2011 to formally resign as secretary of the Central Committee of the Communist Party, from wearing a navy-and-white Fila tracksuit.
Every Male in American Politics, Ever
You've seen it before: the crisp white button-down. Neatly tailored dark suit. Red or blue tie in a Double Windsor knot. Flag lapel pin. This is the uniform of every male politician in the Western world, a modern marvel of sartorial science that beams reassurances of competence and conformity into the brainpan of every person in the room. Ever seen a G-20 group photo? It's two women, the King of Saudi Arabia and 17 guys wearing this outfit. Too much deviation from the norm — think Rick Santorum's sweater vests, Barack Obama's mom jeans and Bill Clinton's short shorts — and an inspirational leader risks becoming an object of ridicule. Don't do it, gentlemen. You know who wears fancy duds? Divas and dictators.
Kim Jong Il's Khaki Safari Suits and Sunglasses
Kim Jong Il was a man who enjoyed the finer things. North Korea's Dear Leader, who died Dec. 17, 2011, was a cinephile who reportedly owned more than 20,000 movies, drank the finest scotch and wine and, as millions of his people starved, sent his chef around the world to buy delicacies, according to that person. Kim should have asked for some new clothes too. For decades, he padded around in an unflattering khaki safari suit, 5-in. heels to boost his diminutive height and enormous glasses and sunglasses that were, quite literally, never in style. During Kim's state funeral, held on Dec. 28, a limousine bore an enormous photo of the dictator, perhaps so the people who lined the parade route by the thousands and wept on command could glance at the Dear Leader's style one final time.
Jimmy Carter's Cardigan
On Feb. 2, 1977, just two weeks after being sworn in as the 39th President, Jimmy Carter delivered a fireside chat from his West Wing study. Carter, a peanut farmer from Plains, Ga., was using the power of network television to "keep in close touch with the people of our country, to let you know informally about our plans."
What caught the attention of viewers that night wasn't necessarily what Carter said, but what he wore: an unbuttoned beige wool cardigan, to stay warm after turning down the heat to conserve energy. That month, TIME wrote that the cardigan "may prove to be the most memorable symbol of an Administration that promises to make steady use of symbolism." Unlike today's era of hyper-stylized image consultancy, in which everything a politician wears is scrutinized, Carter simply wore for the taping what he had worn to dinner. He asked his TV adviser and adman what they thought, and they told him to look at the TV monitor to see for himself. While Carter would have myriad difficulties in the coming years, that early high point was purely authentic. "He was folks, and folks is in," a Republican insider told TIME. "I hate to say it, but from a purely analytical point of view, I loved it."
Mao Zedong's Suits
He founded a country, promulgated an ideology and fostered a zealous personality cult whose members terrorized China — so it's only natural that Mao Zedong would start a fashion trend too. Labeled in China the "Zhongshan suit" after Chinese revolutionary Sun Yat-sen, Mao brought the four-pocketed tunic back into style during his 30-year reign, earning it the nickname "Mao suit." While the tunic originally symbolized proletarian unity after the establishment of the People's Republic of China, Mao's preference for the garment gave it a whole new meaning — at least in the Western imagination. Today the suit, which is almost always pictured in a stale gray, green or blue color, tends to be representative of communism as well as Mao himself. The look began to fall out of fashion after Mao's death in 1976. Now Chinese leaders are more likely to wear Western business suits, except perhaps during important state ceremonies, in rural China or among young urbanites.
Jawaharlal Nehru's Jackets
Some public figures end up popularizing their favorite fashions; a select few have their fashions named after them. That was the case for Indian Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru, who effectively took India's reins from none other than Gandhi (his mentor) as the first Prime Minister of a free India. Hardly reminiscent of Gandhi's famous homespun clothing, the Nehru jacket is a descendant of the northern Indian achkan, a closed-neck, coatlike garment usually considered court dress for Indian nobility. Indeed, it was when the jacket was marketed to Western audiences that it took the "Nehru" title, the charismatic Prime Minister having popularized its style in public appearances during his tenure in government. Nehru wasn't the only prominent figure associated with it; the minimalist aesthetic of the jacket inspired the likes of the Beatles (who wore the style at their Shea Stadium performance) as well as Sammy Davis Jr., who claimed to own more than 200 of the jackets.
Muammar Gaddafi's Everything
Muammar Gaddafi was a tyrant in buffoon's clothing. Until his gruesome death in 2011, the eccentric megalomaniac ruled over Libya for some four decades, adopting for himself the quixotic title "Brother Leader" of the Libyan masses. Responsible for years of torture, killing and terrorist scheming, he was also culpable for some of the most absurd outfits to appear on the geopolitical stage. Military uniform with way too many medals and a large picture of a slain Libyan revolutionary on the lapel? Check. Casual fatigues imprinted with the image of Egypt's former President Gamal Abdel Nasser? Check. Outsize shades, leopard-print hat and gold scepter? Check, check and check. Voluminous wizard robes? Check. There were worse miseries suffered under the Gaddafi dictatorship, but sartorial outlandishness will forever define the tyrant, a man crazed by power.
Hillary Clinton's Pantsuits
A flattering charcoal. A daring red. A charming pink. What would a potential first female U.S. President wear on the campaign trail? Because if we can't concern ourselves with what this educated, politically savvy individual is wearing, what is the point of it all? In 2008, democratic presidential hopeful Hillary Clinton squashed the hopes of fashion bloggers everywhere with her signature pantsuits, a fashion statement that became a countrywide fascination and, at times, a punch line. Clinton could have answered the critiques with a more varied wardrobe; instead, she destroyed the pressure by turning the pantsuit into her political uniform — and an impenetrable suit of armor.
Sarah Palin's Glasses
During her vice-presidential campaign in 2008, Sarah Palin, the Maverick's running mate, became the darling of the Republican Party, and both sexes were as charmed with her as they were with her appearance. But what was it exactly about the librarian-inspired looks of Palin that had people so smitten? Her eyewear. The former Alaska governor's designer Kazuo Kawasaki frames became one of the most in-demand accessories of the year, and retailers all over the country tried to stock the $375 glasses. Suddenly, nearsightedness and a slight astigmatism never seemed more attractive.
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发表于 2012-2-23 12:36
