【原文标题】India's 'Little Lhasa'
【中文标题】印度的“小拉萨”
【登载媒体】China Rises
【来源地址】http://washingtonbureau.typepad.com/china/2008/11/indias-little-lhasa.html#comments
【译者】荡漾
【声明】本翻译供Anti-CNN使用，转载请注明译者及出处，谢谢！
【作者简介】
Tim Johnson，2003年9月起负责McClatchy北京分部，此前在美国有14年工作经验，偏重美国对拉丁美洲的外交政策，在McClatchy写有名为'China Rises'的博客。
【译文】
沿着印度达兰萨拉的山区车站那条路向上就会到达人们熟知的McLeodganj，也就是流亡藏人政府的总部所在地。
它也是国际游客的旅游目的地，夹裹在梳着结辫的发型、裹着披肩，颇具印度“阿曼”特色的西方背包客人流中漫步，除了瑜珈室、提供烹饪课程的露天厨房外随处可见供应拿铁和提供网络服务的咖啡馆。
曾经有段时间因为居住于此的流亡藏人之多这里被称作“小拉萨”。隐藏于喧闹之中的一家大寺院的门背后就是最为闻名的藏传佛教徒最为尊崇的领袖——达赖喇嘛。
这里很多建筑物上空飘扬着藏独旗帜，空气中散发着一种奇怪的小的国际首府的味道，尽管并无任何相关领土统治存在。
Nowrojee家族拥有可能是这里最为古老的店铺，位处于主要的公交车站。店铺上的招牌写着成立时间——1860年。当时这个地方是个山区车站，英国人借以躲避印度北部平原的酷热。
店铺的主人之一Parvez Nowrojee说：“我在这里长大的时候，它只是一个没什么人居住的小镇”“这里也没什么旅游业，人们都去克什米尔”。
达赖喇嘛20世纪60年代来到这里，但是McLeodganj直到80年代才开始热闹起来，克什米尔由于麻烦不断导致旅游业受挫。
这里的游客来自世界各地，有人为研学佛教而来，有人为登山而来，也有人为与独特的西藏气息心灵感应而来。
Nowrojee说：“这个地方在国际地图上占有一席之地”。
有很多年轻人来自同一个特别的国家。
Nowrojee说：“目前很多人是从以色列来的”“很多很多以色列人，他们只为寻找一个庇护所，并非研学佛教。事实上这里有个笑话广为人知：这里有如此多以色列人，是时候准备个拉比了”。
因为居住于此的西藏人为数众多这里一度以“小拉萨”而扬名。
Nowrojee说：“我们印度人站出来宣称‘最好不要这样做，因为我们不想它仅仅成为一个拉萨，这块土地是我们的’”。
Phil Void是美国人，长期居住在此，是一个佛教专家，留着长长的灰黑胡子，了解这里究竟发生了多大的变化。
他回忆说：“以前这里没有出租车”“寺庙和藏书室之间就是羊肠小道而已”。
猴子在镇上窜来窜去。昨天下午我正走在从寺院出来的路上，一只大猴子重重地从一棵松树上跳下来穿过了马路，朝着两只狗嗷嗷乱叫。我环顾了周围看到一只小猴子死在路边。很显然狗把小猴子给弄死了，激怒了母猴。
现在有好几千流亡藏人住在此地，但是并非所有人都真切感受到这里是他们的家。
我和Tenzin Losel聊了一会，和许多西藏人一样，他希望这里不会成为永远的家，他想回到西藏。
Losel说：“我觉得我不过是车站上的一个过客。火车随时都会开，我从未感觉过安定”。
【读者评论】
It wasn't "in the early 1960s" that the Dalai Lama arrived in Dharamsala. It was in the year 1960s when the Indian government settled him there, after his temporary residence in another Himalayan station had followed his arrival in India in April 1959.
Posted by: Henry Bradsher | November 24, 2008 at 09:10 AM
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不是20世纪60年代初期达赖喇嘛到达兰萨拉，而是印度政府在60年代将达赖喇嘛安置到那里的那一年。1959年4月他到达印度后在另一个藏区短暂住过一段时间。
Who paved the road in Dharamsala? Who provided policing? Where is the money from? I'm interested in the political economy of Dharamsala.
Posted by: otoh | November 24, 2008 at 03:18 PM
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达兰萨拉的路是谁铺的？谁负责维持秩序？钱从哪里来？我对达兰萨拉的政治经济感兴趣。
Dharamsala has been around for ages. It existed before the Dalai Lama arrived. It's a pre-established town, that has much going on beyond the Dalai Lama's presence (though that is important also). It is developed and administered as most other towns are, through Indian/local funding. It has its own market and local shops & markets that give it a thriving economy. Thank goodness China and its influence is kept out of there.
Tibet needs a lifeline to survive the Chinese occupation. Dharamsala is that lifeline.
Posted by: Odin Tengse | November 24, 2008 at 07:41 PM
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达兰萨拉存在好多年啦，在达赖喇嘛来之前就存在了。它是个早已建立的小镇，其意义不仅仅因为达赖喇嘛来到（尽管这也很重要）。和许多镇一样，它在印度/本地资金的支持下发展和接受管理，它有自己的市场和本地的商店、市集，经济蒸蒸日上。感谢上帝这里不需要中国及其影响。
西藏需要救命稻草才能在中国的统治下存活，达兰萨拉就是那根救命稻草。
【原文】
Just up the road from the hill station of Dharamsala, India, is a settlement known as McLeodganj. It is the headquarters of the Tibetan government-in-exile.
It’s also on the international travelers’ circuit, and a visitor strolling around town crosses paths with many Western backpackers with dreadlocks and shawls bearing the Hindu symbol for “Om.” The settlement is full of coffee bars offering lattes and internet cafes, as well as yoga studios and open air kitchens offering cooking courses.
There was a time that the settlement was called “Little Lhasa” because the number of Tibetan exiles living here. Behind a main temple is the hidden compound is the most famous of them, the Dalai Lama, the most revered leader of the Tibetan Buddhists.
Fluttering above many buildings here is the Free Tibet flag, and the place has the quaint air of a tiny international capital, although there is no territory to rule.
Probably the oldest store in McLeodganj belongs to the Nowrojee family. It is at the main bus stop. The sign above the entrance notes that it was established in 1860, back when the region was a hill station for British seeking to escape the heat of the northern Indian plains.
“When I grew up here, it was a sparsely populated town,” Parvez Nowrojee, one of the proprietors of the store, tells me. “It did not have much tourism because Kashmir was doing well.”
The Dalai Lama arrived in the early 1960s, but McLeodganj didn’t begin to bustle until the 1980s when troubles hit Kashmir and halted the flow of tourism there.
Tourists now come from all over, some to study Buddhism, others to do trekking in the mountains, still others to soak up the vibes of a place with a distinct Tibetan air.
“The place is on the international map,” Nowrojee said.
Many of the young people come from one country in particular.
“The present influx is more of Israelis,” Nowrojee told me, “lots and lots of Israelis. They don’t learn Buddhism, but they just found the place a haven for themselves. In fact, there’s a joke going around town that it’s time they had a rabbi there are so many of them.”
At one point, McLeodganj became known as “Little Lhasa” because of the number of Tibetans living here.
“We Indians got up and said, ‘You better not do that because we don’t want it to become a Lhasa only. This land belongs to us,’” Nowrojee said.
Another longtime resident here, Phil Void, an American Buddhism expert with a long gray-flecked beard, remembered how much the settlement has changed.
“There were no taxi cabs then,” he recalled. “The road between the temple and the library was a goat path.”
Monkeys roam the town. Yesterday afternoon, I was walking up the road from the temple, and a large monkey barreled down from a pine tree and crossed the road, setting two dogs to howling. I looked around and saw a dead baby monkey on the side of the road. Apparently, the dogs had killed the baby, angering the mother.
Today, many thousand Tibetan exiles live in this settlement, but not all of them really feel settled, as it were.
One with whom I spent a bit of time is Tenzin Losel. Like many Tibetans, he hopes the region isn’t his permanent home. He wants to go home to Tibet.
“I just feel like I’m a passenger at the station. The train can leave at any time. I never feel settled,” Losel told me.
【截图】
[ 本帖最后由 妩人少将 于 2008-11-27 10:14 编辑 ] |
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