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Tibetans Greet New Year in Opposition
http://www.nytimes.com/2009/02/26/world/asia/26tibet.html?_r=1&ref=asia
By EDWARD WONG Published: February 25, 2009
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前天 01:02
Shiho Fukada for The New York Times
Tibetan monks leaving morning prayer on Wednesday at Rongwo Monastery in Qinghai Province, China. The Tibetan new year has come, but many Tibetans, angry over the events of the past year, are rejecting official efforts to drum up festivities.
中國，青海省，星期三早晨喇嘛們在RONGWO寺廟禱告。藏历的新年正在接近，但不少藏人因爲去年的事件而憤怒地反對官方大力鼓吹的慶典活動。
TONGREN, China — Snow fell across this mountain valley as red-robed monks in a prayer hall beat drums and chanted in tantric harmony, a seemingly auspicious start to Losar, the Tibetan New Year.
TONGREN, China—雪花在这片峡谷飘落~，红衣喇嘛在寺庙里整齐地鼓槌吟唱，一切看起来似乎是一个充满希望的藏历新年。
But a monk watching the ritual on Wednesday morning made it clear: This was a ceremony of mourning, not celebration.
但在星期三早上一个在场的小喇嘛把一切抖明了：这是一次哀悼而非庆典。
“There is no Losar,” he said, standing in this monastery town on the edge of the Tibetan plateau. “They killed so many people last year.”
“没有（藏历）新年。”他在这个青藏高原边的寺庙里说道。“他们去年杀害了太多人。”
A few weeks ahead of the 50th anniversary of a failed Tibetan uprising against Chinese rule, and a year after a crackdown on renewed ethnic unrest in this area, Tibetans are quietly but irrepressibly seething. Monks, nomads and merchants have turned the joyous Losar holiday into a dirge, memorializing Tibetans who died in last year’s conflict and pining for the return of the exiled Dalai Lama.
几个星期前是西藏人民反抗中国统治50周年纪念日，也是种族起义遭镇压的一年后，藏人看来很平静但又有无法镇压的火热情绪。回想起去年在动乱中死去的人们，渴望流亡DALAI LAMA归来，喇嘛、牧民和商贾们将本应快乐的新年看作一首哀诗。
An informal grass-roots boycott is under way. Tibetans are forsaking dancing and dinner parties for vigils with yak-butter candles and the chanting of prayers. The Losar campaign signifies the discontent that many of China’s six million Tibetans still feel toward domination by the ethnic Han Chinese. They are resisting pressure by Chinese officials to celebrate and forget.
一场非正式民间抵制活动正在启动。藏人们为了保持清醒而放弃晚宴和歌舞，只是点着牦牛油灯祷告。藏历新年的这场运动表明6M的藏人仍然不满被汉人统治。中国ZF试图的用庆典来让他们忘记过去，但他们并不屈服于此。
“It’s a conscious awakening of an entire people,” said Woeser, a popular Tibetan blogger.
“这是整个民族精神的觉醒。”一个藏族博客WOESER说。
Tibetans here and in other towns, including in Lhasa, the Tibetan capital, say government officials have handed out money to Tibetans to entice them to hold exuberant new year parties. On Wednesday, state-run television showed Tibetans in Lhasa dancing, shooting off fireworks and feasting in their homes.
这里的藏人，包括西藏的首都拉萨的藏人，都被告知政府将拿钱诱惑他们兴高采烈的举办庆典活动。星期三，在国立电视台上，拉萨的藏民们都在开心的举行篝火晚会，在家中享受盛宴。
At the same time, the government has drawn a curtain across Tibet. Officials have shut down access to many Tibetan regions to foreigners and sent armed guards to patrol the streets.
与此同时，政府在全西藏拉下了一张帷幕。官方关闭了多出进藏入口以阻止外国人进入，并备以实枪诃弹的部队巡逻在各个街道上。
Here in eastern Qinghai Province, near the Dalai Lama’s birthplace, the boycott of festivities began as early as January, during the Chinese Lunar New Year. On Wednesday in Tongren, called Rebkong by Tibetans, one of the few bursts of firecrackers took place outside a Chinese paramilitary compound.
早在一月份中国传统新年的时候，在青海省东部，DALAI LAMA的出生地，抵制新年庆典的活动就已经展开。星期三，在TONGREN，也就是藏人所说的REBKONG，只有在某中国部队驻地外围有鞭炮声想起。
“The government thinks we should celebrate this holiday properly,” said Shartsang, the abbot of Rongwo Monastery. “Certainly this year people haven’t celebrated it in the same way they did in past years.”
“政府认为我们应该适当的开展庆典活动，”RONGWO寺庙的主持SHARTSANG说。“很显然今年人们并没有像过去一样开展庆典活动。”
Shartsang was one of more than a dozen monks interviewed over three days at Rongwo, called Longwu in Chinese. The 700-year-old monastery is a sprawling complex of golden-eaved temples and labyrinthine alleyways that is home to 400 monks. It draws pilgrims from across the Tibetan plateau.
SHARTSANG是我们在RONGWO（即LONGWU）三天里采访最多的一个人。这座有700年历史的寺庙镶着金边，充满了曲折的小道，是400个喇嘛的家。它吸引着来自青藏高原的众多香客。
The government has stepped up security across Tibet. Here, more than 300 security officers with riot shields were seen training in the stadium on Wednesday afternoon. On Monday night, a unit of officers marched in formation along a cordoned-off road.
政府已经在西藏加强了安全戒备。在这里，有人看见超多300个带着防爆护盾的安全官员星期三下午在一个体育馆内训练。星期一晚上，一队官员排队在一个警界的街道上行军。
Chinese officials are wary of the boycott’s mushrooming into larger protests, and of Tibetans taking to the streets next month, which marks the 50th anniversary of the uprising that led to the Dalai Lama’s flight from Lhasa. Most Tibetans revere the Dalai Lama, who advocates autonomy, but not secession, for Tibet.
政府提防着抵制活动发展成大规模的反抗，同时也提防着藏人在反抗中国统治运动50周年起义纪念和DALAI LAMA逃离拉萨纪念那天走上街头。大多数藏人都很尊崇DALAI LAMA，因为他提倡西藏自治而非脱离中国。
Last March, China was convulsed by the largest Tibetan uprising against Chinese rule in decades. It began when the suppression of protests by monks in Lhasa led to ethnic rioting by Tibetans. Eighteen civilians and one police officer were killed, according to Xinhua, the state news agency. Riots and protests flared up across western China. Tibetan exile groups say hundreds of Tibetans died in the crackdown.
去年三月份，中国被数十年来最大的一次藏民起义所震动。它由喇嘛的反抗发展到藏民的种族起义。18个平民和一个警察在暴乱中死去。暴乱和起义在中国西部迅速发展。西藏流亡集团说数百藏民在镇压中死去。
Rongwo Monastery was a locus of resistance. Even before the riots in Lhasa, monks joined Tibetan townspeople to protest the way the police had handled a dispute between Tibetans and ethnic Hui Muslims. More than 200 monks were detained in that incident. During the March uprising, security forces surrounded the monastery, only to be met by stone-hurling monks.
RONGWO寺庙是一处抵抗者的处所。甚至在拉萨暴乱之前既有喇嘛联合藏民反对处理藏民和回民之间的争端。超过200喇嘛在那次事件中被拘留。在三月起义期间，寺庙周围的警卫遭到了喇嘛的石头袭击。
Over the summer, leading monks were detained in a nearby school and forced to undergo patriotic education, which meant studying Chinese law and being told to denounce the Dalai Lama.
整个夏天，带头的喇嘛被拘留在附近的一所学校并被强制接收爱国主义教育，也就是学习中国法律和教唆去职责DALAI LAMA。
Waves of crackdowns have fueled resentment.
镇压的引起更多的怨气。
“They broke into my room and took away all my photos of the Dalai Lama,” said one monk, 53, as he held up a pile of five empty glass picture frames. “Then they led monks away with their wrists bound by wires.”
“他们冲入我的房间，拿走了所有DALAI LAMA相片，”一个53岁的喇嘛拿着5个空空的玻璃相框说。“然后他们把手背绳索捆着的喇嘛带着了。”
Like almost all the people interviewed for this article, the monk asked that his name not be used to avoid government reprisal. The monastery is under surveillance — cameras have been installed throughout, monks say, and security officers dressed in monk’s robes wander the alleys.
正如这片文章中访问的其他所有人，这个喇嘛请求我们不要透露他的姓名以免遭到政府的报复。这座庙宇随时都在被监视着---到处都装上了相机，喇嘛说，还有安全官穿着喇嘛的服装在庙里到处走。~~
Nevertheless, the monks have put photographs of the Dalai Lama back up in prayer halls and in their bedrooms. One monk held up an amulet of the Dalai Lama dangling from his neck.
尽管如此，喇嘛们在庙里和卧室里还藏有DALAI LAMA的相片。有一个喇嘛在颈部戴着DALAI LAMA 的付身付。
“The Chinese say this is all one country,” he said. “What do we think? You don’t know what’s in our hearts. They don’t know what’s in our hearts.” The monk tapped his chest.
Some of the greatest hostility comes from 30 or so monks from the Drepung and Sera monasteries in Lhasa who have sought refuge here, even as some monks from Rongwo have tried fleeing across the Himalayas to India. Last spring, after the uprising, security forces in Lhasa cleared out monasteries and jailed monks for months. About 700 were sent to a camp in Golmud, in Qinghai, for patriotic education, then ordered to return to their hometowns, said three young monks who were at the camp.
“We want to go back to our monastery in Lhasa, but the police would check our ID cards and evict us,” one of them said. “We came here because we wanted a good opportunity to study.”
To try to maintain calm in the monastery, government officials meet regularly with a council of eight older monks. In early February, they had a frank discussion with the council, a senior monk said.
“They said they don’t want any trouble from us,” he said. “They said they punished us last year by putting us in jail. This year, the punishment will be this — ” The monk held up a thumb and index finger in the shape of a pistol.
Eager for the pretense of calm, government officials handed out nearly $100 to some families in surrounding villages to hold Losar celebrations. But Tibetans came up with a strategy.
“A lot of village leaders got together and said, ‘If the government comes around, we’ll tell them that a lot of Tibetans and Chinese were killed in the earthquake last year, so we can’t celebrate now,’ ” said a 31-year-old Tibetan man from the area.
He said that not a single firecracker had been heard in his village.
Jonathan Ansfield contributed reporting. |
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