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本帖最后由 I'm_zhcn 于 2009-7-25 01:38 编辑
【中文标题】可怜间谍眼中的风景
【原文标题】A sight for poor spies
【登载媒体】SMH
【原文链接】http://www.smh.com.au/travel/a-sight-for-poor-spies-20090312-8w3e.html
【翻译方式】人工
【译者】nbnbren
【声明】本翻译供Anti-CNN使用,未经AC或译者许可,不得转载
【原文库链接】http://bbs.m4.cn/thread-183697-1-1.html
【译文】
Sally Hammond visits the Fujian houses that baffled the US in the Cold War.
Sally Hammond参观了在冷战期间令美国困惑的福建房屋(土楼)。
Our guide points to the crone seated just inside the doorway, grinning toothlessly at us. "See that old lady? She's 90." Ancient as she is, the amazing "house that is a village" we have just entered is far older. In fact, some of its doughnut-shaped earthen buildings were built as long as 700 years ago, by Mongolian refugees who, after many years of searching, chose to settle in the fertile valleys of China's Fujian Province.
我们的导游指着坐在门口的干瘪老太太,她露出没牙对我们笑,“看到那老太太没?她90岁了”,就是一个远古人一样。神奇的“土楼就是一个村庄”,我们回到了远古。实际上,一些甜麦圈形状的泥土建筑是700多年前由蒙古难民建立的,他们在多年的寻找后,选择了在中国福建省的肥沃的山谷里面安家落户。
Here, in these impregnable rammed-earth houses topped with black terracotta tiles, life began again. At an altitude of 800 metres, the cool climate was perfect to grow cabbages and persimmons, tea and turnips. Little did they realise that, centuries later, their unique architecture would almost spark an international incident.
世外桃源般,在那些黑瓦盖顶的坚不可摧的土质房屋里面,生活从新开始了。在海拔800米高度,凉爽的气候时候栽培卷心菜,柿子,茶叶和萝卜。他们似乎不知道,本世纪后期,他们独特的建筑几乎应发了国际事件。
In 1985, with the Cold War still front and centre, these strange square and ring-shaped structures looked sinister enough on the US surveillance satellite to rattle the White House. After all, they were hidden in valleys directly inland from Taiwan. The US government sent in spies to check out the "group nuclear base".
1985年,冷战还在早中期,那些前所未闻的方形和圆形建筑在美国监视卫星看来足够险恶,白宫因此吵吵闹闹。毕竟,他们藏在直接面对台湾的山谷里面。美国政府派遣了间谍去检查“成群的核基地”。
Today, there is a smooth new highway to Yongding from Xiamen, a tourist island and bustling city on the coast south of Shanghai. Delightfully relaxed and dotted with lakes and waterways, Yongding is one of China's smaller cities, with a population of just 5million. It is almost within sight of Taiwan. In fact, you can just see one of the archipelago's outlying islands a few kilometres offshore.
今天,有条平整的高速从厦门到永定,厦门,有个旅游的岛屿,是个位于上海南面的热闹城市。无拘无束,星罗棋布的湖泊和河流,永定是中国小城市之一,只有5百万人口,几乎可以用眼睛就看得见台湾。实际上,你只能看见在台湾群岛偏远的,离海岸几公里远的一个岛屿。
By coach, it is a comfortable four-hour trip. But the US investigators had to trek in over mountains to see and photograph the evidence - only to leave swiftly, embarrassed.
通过长途客车,那是一个四小时的舒适的旅程。但是美国调查者不得不艰苦跋涉,翻山越岭来观察,和拍照录取证物--只有快速撤离,真是为难他们了。
If our welcome was anything to go by, on entering each "reactor" they would have been offered a cup of green tea, while the only weapons they would have found were knives and cleavers used to dispatch chickens and pigs for the cooking pot. The clay courtyard of the four-storey earthen fortresses would have been filled with fluffy yellow ducklings, toddlers and people going about their daily business.
如果我们欢迎的还是先前的例子,那么计入每个“核反应堆”,他们将提供一杯绿茶,同时他们唯一能找到的武器是菜刀和把鸡和猪赶进蒸锅的荆棘条。四层高的泥土堡垒的院子里面满是毛茸茸的黄色鸭子,蹒跚的儿童和日出而作日落而息的老百姓。
Warfare was the furthest thing from the minds of these peaceful inhabitants.
战争在那些安宁的居民脑海中是最遥远的事情。
To visit a "tulou", 46 of which were added to the UNESCO World Heritage list last year, is to step through a portal into another culture, another time. Big enough for up to a thousand people, each "house" is a complete village, usually accommodating an entire clan .
参观“土楼"tulou",(去年联合国教科文组织世界遗产目录中新增的46个,),是步入另一种文化,另一个时代的门槛。大到容纳上千人群,每个”房屋“就是一个完整的村庄,通常是一整个宗族和睦相处。
Outside, on concrete slabs, chillies, corn, mushrooms, persimmons and rosellas are drying in the sunshine, while slender heads of cabbage hang on a fence.
屋外混凝土板上,辣椒,玉米,蘑菇,柿子和鹦鹉,卷心菜细细的根部挂在篱笆,一起上在阳光下烘晒着。
As we clamber up the shaky stairs from the ground floor, which is reserved for communal activities, past the second floor used for storage to the accommodation level, I feel for the elderly who have yet another staircase to manage - inexplicably, the fourth (and top) floor is reserved for them.
Downstairs, we sample some of the locally grown tea and marvel over a bottle of strong spirit filled with enormous bumblebees. "Drink it. Good for the knees!" we are exhorted. Maybe we'd need to if we had to manage those stairs every day.
当我们从底楼爬上摇摇晃晃的楼梯,楼梯是公用的,通过通常用来存储东西的二楼来到居住层,我有些同情年长者,他们还得爬另外一层楼梯---令人费解,四楼(顶层)是专门给他们用的。到楼下,我们品尝一些当地出产的茶叶,鼓起勇气,奇迹般的喝了浸泡了凶恶大黄蜂的酒。我们被奉劝到"喝点吧,对你们的膝盖有好处"。如果我们不得不每天爬那些楼梯,也许我们真用得着。
Then came an offer too good to refuse.
盛情难却。
Hokkien (Hakka) is the cuisine of Taiwan, though it is perhaps better known as a staple in the hawker food of Singapore and Malaysia. Many Chinese emigrated en masse from Fujian Province in the 19th century - ironically because of famine - and their simple peasant dishes, rich in soy sauce and duck, became the foundation of the popular "nonya" food, which grew out of the intermarriages with Malays.
客家人是台湾人的烹饪风味,虽然它也许比知名的新加坡和马来西亚的小吃风味更好些。19世纪,很多中国移民都是来自福建省---讽刺的是因为饥荒--他们用简朴的农家菜,多用酱和鸭子,成为了流行的"nonya”食物的基础,逐步脱离马来西亚味道独成一派。
We lunch in a small room outside the tulou. The plates come constantly: eggplant and red hot chillies, pork belly bathed in oily turnip broth, sweet potato chips dusted with sugar, fried whitebait, cold poached duck - all fried, all delicious and, finally, all too much.
我们的午餐在土楼外的一间小屋子。菜盆应接不暇:茄子炒红辣椒,猪肉萝卜汤,糖拔丝土豆片,炸银鱼,凉切鸭,---都是油炸,都是美味,总而言之,太多了。
You could be forgiven for thinking the original builders of the tulou were themselves frustrated chefs. To form the metre-thick walls, local red soil was first mixed with sand and stone and then glutinous rice, brown sugar and egg whites, making a mix stronger than concrete, even before it was reinforced with bamboo.
当想到那些最初的土楼建设者他们自己是失败的厨师时,你应该原谅他们。为了形成几米厚的墙壁,用当地的红土先混合沙子,石头和糯米,红糖和鸡蛋清,混合起来超过了混凝土,甚至之前还加竹子来加固。
The balconies that run along each floor create an atrium overlooking the central area. Most tulous were built with a single gate, for security, and had a source of water inside, as well as waste disposal. Often a temple stands in the centre, for these people brought their Confucian and Daoist beliefs with them.
阳台环绕每层,创建了一个中庭,能眺望中心区域。为安全起见,大多数土楼只有一个门口,水源在内部,也有废物处理装置。通常,祠堂位于中央,为那些人们带来孔夫子和道教信仰。
There are so many tulous in the area - the more elaborate ones date from the 17th and 18th centuries - that you could spend days exploring them. We visit another one in a delightful village called Taxii. Here, while there are some tulous, most people live in almost European-style houses overlooking the water.
这个地区有太多土楼----精心创建于17到18世纪----你可以花好几天来探索。我们参观了另外一个令人欢欣的村庄叫Taxii,这里有一些土楼,很多人们居住在能看到水的差不多欧洲式样的房子里面。
In the late afternoon as we stroll along the path beside the river, we nod and smile at the locals seated outside their homes, smoking and relaxing with their families. Occasionally, we step aside for a cyclist, or a farm truck returning home, and once a shiny black sedan pushes importantly through.
在下午晚些时候,当我们在沿着小河的路上漫步,我们微笑着和坐在屋外的当地人点头示意,他们抽着烟,和家人一起轻松交谈,偶尔,我们避让一下骑车者,或者回家的农用车,也曾经有轿车一辆锃亮的黑色神气活现从我们那里挤过。
In this remote part of China, it seems ludicrous to imagine satellites and nuclear reactors. But then to people who build with brown sugar and egg white, maybe not.
在这个中国的偏远地区,把它想象成卫星发射场和核反应堆看起来很可笑。不过,人们是否真的用红糖和鸡蛋清来建造,也许没有。
The writer travelled as a guest of Helen Wong's Tours.
作者作为Helen Wong's 旅行社的旅客进行这次旅游。
TRIP NOTES
旅行注意
Getting there
Singapore Airlines flies from Sydney to Shanghai 24 times a week. Fares start from $811 plus taxes. Yongding is a four-hour coach ride from Xiamen. Helen Wong's Tours (02 9267 7833, see helenwongstours.com) has a six-day Fujian Province tour from April, for groups of two or more, for $1650 a person, twin share, land only.
到达目的地新加坡航空从悉尼到上海一周24次,含税费用811澳元起,从厦门到永定是四个小时汽车。注:后面广告不翻译
Staying there
Overnight, before the tour starts, Central Hotel Shanghai. It's adjacent to the Nanjing Road Pedestrian Mall. See centralhotelshanghai.com.
Further information
See travelchinaguide.com/cityguides/fujian.
Source: The Sun-Herald |
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