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【原文标题】Made for China
【中文标题】奢侈品，为中国制造
【登载媒体】Newsweek
【来源地址】http://www.newsweek.com/2010/10/11/made-for-china.html?from=rss
【译 者】 双籽宣言
【翻译方式】 人工翻译
【声 明】 本翻译供Anti-CNN使用，未经AC或译者许可，不得转载。
【译 文】
在西方，炫耀性消费已经不再流行。但是奢侈品行业正在中国急速发展，中国富人变得比以往更挑剔，他们不再满足于前往纽约或巴黎抢购路易斯-威登和芬迪的手提包，而是希望有更多针对中国消费者制造的奢侈品。
法国奢侈品大亨爱马仕公司最近在上海开了一家新品牌店，经营各种华美的丝巾、明代风格的紫檀木桌椅、瓷碗、珠宝、蒙古羊绒呢料以及其他具有很高收藏价值的小玩意，比如茶壶。这些物品使用的原材料都非常奢侈，但同时具备中国特色。自从开业以来，这家品牌店总是人山人海，并引发西方品牌界的关注。
从可口可乐到宝洁，美国和欧洲的跨国公司几十年来一直在开发中国的大市场，但其他世界品牌却步伐缓慢。一部分原因是中国依然是一个发展中国家，中国人奉行储蓄原则。另一方面，许多世界品牌只是把他们现有的产品运往中国，很少加以适合中国人的设计，只是改变了语言和包装。“直到近来，‘在西方发明然后运往中国’的这种态度还适用吗？”，波士顿咨询集团高级合伙人兼公司市场总监说，“这已经不管用了”。
但是这些奢侈品制造公司现在开始变得聪明了，但不是特别急。自经济危机爆发以来，西方奢侈品市场一落千丈，零售业多集中于中国，中国已经成为世界第三大消费市场，到2025年市场价值高达2.3万亿美元。中国人比其国家居民购买更多汽车和电视，中国已经成为世界上第二大电脑消费国。其他领域也增长迅速，包括珠宝、化妆品以及豪华汽车等。麦肯锡驻上海的安宏宇说：“紧随经济危机之后的全球经济增长再分配，比此前预测的变化更大。现在许多外国公司感觉，他们需要像对待国内市场那样重视中国。”
虽然在中国销售产品并不意味着要像爱马仕那样模仿中国的美学标准，但确实需要为中国的消费者进行更周全的考虑。近来，一些外国公司发布了许多为中国人量身订做的产品，比如宝马公司引入仅限在中国销售的M3“老虎”轿车，因为2010年是中国虎年；法国品牌克洛伊不久将发行中国版红色Marcie手提包，红色在中国代表幸运；全球牛仔裤生产商李维斯公司也面向亚洲中产阶级推出新产品。这些公司尽最大努力，让中国消费者直到它们的产品多么有价值。比如苹果在上海的连锁店，显眼处挂着汉语书写的“中国消费者总是对的”、“加州设计、为中国制造”的条幅，工作人员都穿着有中国特色的红色衬衫。
除了生产专为中国市场量身定制的产品，许多公司已经开始向其他国家出口这些产品。惠普日前在重庆设计了一款专门针对农村低成本市场的产品。该产品可以承受雨水和灰尘，畅销不衰。于是，惠普决定向其他新兴市场推广此产品。同时，保时捷也推出了其针对中国的新车。
当然，并非每个外国公司“为中国制造”的产品都获得成功。一些外国公司忽略了中国当地市场的关键差异，比如沃尔玛“天天低价”的口号即以失败告终，因为一些中国消费者就是冲着产品高价格而显得有地位从而购买的。同时，商场的位置也决定了其成败。许多富裕的大城市的中国人倾向于在出国旅游时购买奢侈品。像拉夫-劳伦这类首先选择在中国沿海城市开店的奢侈品品牌，日后发现在西方不怎么了解的二三线城市，如重庆、大连，他们的销量会更好，这与香港形成了对比。
尽管挑战依然存在，但中国消费者在过去2年间的消费增长了15%，大多数分析家认为，这种增长趋势还将继续持续，因为新一代消费群体正在崛起，他们乐于支出，而不是储蓄。同时，保健品和化妆品有着很大的销售潜力，中国的中产阶级愿意把钱花在西方不会偷工减料的高端品牌上。波士顿咨询公司的咨询师说，雅诗兰黛、兰蔻这样的公司开始在中国发展新品牌迎合中国市场。
这种伎俩正在演变成一种公式。虽然中国人喜欢明朝的椅子和本地的瓷器，他们也期待在必胜客有一个约会之夜，有着精致的餐具，白色的桌布和令人印象深刻的艺术作品。“每当我的团队完成一个项目，我总是让他们选择一个高级餐厅聚餐吃饭，比如丽嘉或四季酒店。”一个咨询公司的领导说，“但他们总是挑选必胜客。”看来，奢侈品消费并不是有关价钱，而是观念。
Made for China
With Western markets sagging, luxury firms are tailoring products to the Middle Kingdom.
Diego Azubel / EPA-Corbis
Conspicuous consumption may be out of fashion in the West. But in China, the luxury-goods business is booming, and the rich are becoming more discriminating than ever. No longer satisfied with snapping up the same Louis Vuitton luggage and Fendi baguettes they can find in New York or Paris, Chinese consumers are demanding luxury goods that are tailored especially to them.
The French luxury giant Hermès, for instance, recently opened a boutique in Shanghai for its new Chinese brand, Shang Xai. The offerings are in stark contrast to the brand’s colorful trademark silk scarves. There are Ming-style chairs, eggshell porcelain bowls and jewelry inspired by unusual Chinese collectible baubles, such as teapots. The materials used—zitan wood, lacquer, and Mongolian cashmere—are luxurious, and local. Packed with customers since opening, the boutique has generated huge buzz, and other Western brands are taking notice.
American and European multinationals from Coca-Cola to Procter & Gamble have been trying for decades to capitalize on the world’s most populous nation, but for many top brands progress has been surprisingly slow. That’s in part because China is still a relatively poor country, with a high savings rate. But also, it’s because many big brands have simply dumped their existing products on the Chinese market, with little thought to tailoring their wares to the audience beyond changing the language on the packaging. “Until quite recently, the attitude has been, ‘Let’s invent in the West and ship to China,’?” says Hubert Hsu, a senior partner at Boston Consulting Group and leader of the firm’s consumer practice in China. “It didn’t work.”
But companies are beginning to wise up—and none too soon. With Western markets for luxury goods in a slump since the financial crisis, retailers are focusing on China, which is on course to become the world’s third-largest consumer market, worth $2.3 trillion, by 2025, according to the consulting firm McKinsey & Co. The Chinese al-ready buy more cars and televisions than anyone else, and they are No. 2 when it comes to PC sales. Any number of other categories are booming, from jewelry (up 25 percent a year) to cosmetics (up 20 percent) to luxury automobiles (up 50 percent). “The redistribution of global growth following the financial crisis was more dramatic than anyone could have predicted,” says McKinsey’s Yuval Atsmon. “There’s now a sense amongst many foreign firms that they need to start treating China as their home market.”
Although selling to the Chinese market doesn’t have to mean emulating a Chinese aesthetic, as Hermès has done, it does mean thinking much more carefully about what Chinese consumers actually want. Hence, a slew of firms have in recent months launched products custom-made for the Chinese. BMW introduced a China-only limited version of its muscly M3, called the Tiger, which is named for the 2010 Chinese New Year and features fiery orange-and-black coloring. French fashion house Chloe will soon launch a Chinese version of its Marcie handbag in red, which is a lucky color in the Middle Kingdom. And Levi Strauss & Co. has rolled out a jeans brand, Denizen, with slimmer cuts and more localized styles to appeal to the emerging Asian middle class. |
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发表于 2010-10-11 16:24
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