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本帖最后由 下个月 于 2014-4-4 16:39 编辑
【正文标题】这年头哪儿吃东西都不安生
【原文链接】http://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2014/mar/23/everything-you-know-about-unhealthy-foods-is-wrong
【译文链接】http://www.ltaaa.com/bbs/thread-280890-1-1.html
【正文】
蛋类和红肉皆在营养暗杀名单上——然而上周一次大型研究却解除了脂肪与心脏病间的关联，是时候全面反思了吗？
Why almost everything you've been told about unhealthy foods is wrong 为什么你被告知有关不健康食物的一切几近全错？
Eggs and red meat have both been on the nutritional hit list – but after a major study last week dismissed a link between fats and heart disease, is it time for a complete rethink?
蛋类和红肉皆在营养暗杀名单上——然而上周一次大型研究却解除了脂肪与心脏病间的关联，是时候全面反思了吗？
Could eating too much margarine be bad for your critical faculties? The "experts" who so confidently advised us to replace saturated fats, such as butter, with polyunsaturated spreads, people who presumably practise what they preach, have suddenly come over all uncertain and seem to be struggling through a mental fog to reformulate their script.
过多食用人造黄油不利于判断能力吗？“专家”自信地建议我们替换掉黄油之类的饱和脂肪，随着不饱和脂肪的普及，大致尝试了下砖家建议的人顿悟一切，好似大费周折地越过了心理迷惘，重新制定他们的言论脚本。
Last week it fell to a floundering professor, Jeremy Pearson, from the British Heart Foundation to explain why it still adheres to the nutrition establishment's anti-saturated fat doctrine when evidence is stacking up to refute it. After examining 72 academic studies involving more than 600,000 participants, the study, funded by the foundation, found that saturated fat consumption was not associated with coronary disease risk. This assessment echoed a review in 2010 that concluded "there is no convincing evidence that saturated fat causes heart disease".
上周这个问题落到了一名举步维艰的教授，杰瑞米·皮尔逊身上。英国心脏基金会的皮尔逊要解释为何重证据反驳的情况下心脏病仍在附和营养机构的反饱和脂肪主义。在审查了72项、计60万人参与的学术研究之后，该基金会资助的研究发现饱和脂肪消耗与冠状动脉疾病患病风险无关。此项评估呼应回顾2010年就推断出的“没有令人信服的证据表明饱和脂肪会导致心脏病。”
Neither could the foundation's research team find any evidence for the familiar assertion that trips off the tongue of margarine manufacturers and apostles of government health advice, that eating polyunsaturated fat offers heart protection. In fact, lead researcher Dr Rajiv Chowdhury spoke of the need for an urgent health check on the standard healthy eating script. "These are interesting results that potentially stimulate new lines of scientific inquiry and encourage careful reappraisal of our current nutritional guidelines," he said.
基金会研究小组也没能为人造黄油生产商以及政府健康咨询倡导者琅琅上口的言论找到任何证据来支持食用不饱和脂肪可保护心脏。事实上，首席研究员拉吉夫·乔杜里博士还谈到对标准健康饮食计划进行紧急健康检查的需要。“饱和脂肪与心脏关系的有趣结论可能会刺激出科学探究新路线，并鼓励谨慎再评估我们当前的营养指标。”
Chowdhury went on to warn that replacing saturated fats with excess carbohydrates – such as white bread, white rice and potatoes – or with refined sugar and salts in processed foods, should be discouraged. Current healthy eating advice is to "base your meals on starchy foods", so if you have been diligently following that dietetic gospel, then the professor's advice is troubling.
乔杜里接着警告称，采用过多碳水化合物替代饱和脂肪——例如白面包、白米、土豆——或在食品加工中采用精糖和精盐的行为应加以劝阻。目前的健康饮食咨询“以淀粉类食物作为膳食基础”，倘若你勤勉地跟从这类饮食教条，那么教授的建议便显得令人苦恼了。
Confused? Even borderline frustrated and beginning to run out of patience? So was the BBC presenter tasked with getting clarity from the British Heart Foundation. Yes, Pearson conceded, "there is not enough evidence to be firm about [healthy eating] guidelines", but no, the findings "did not change the advice that eating too much fat is harmful for the heart". Saturated fat reduction, he said, was just one factor we should consider as part of a balanced diet and a healthy lifestyle. Can you hear a drip, drip in the background as officially endorsed diet advice goes into meltdown?
感到疑惑吗？甚至到了心情沮丧、失去耐心的边缘？负责从英国心脏基金会了解真相的BBC主持人同样不解。是的，皮尔逊承认“没有足够证据能落实[健康饮食]指标”，但发现也“没改变食用过多脂肪对心脏有害的建议”。他表示减少摄入饱和脂肪只不过是我们该考虑均衡饮食和健康生活方式的一部分。在官方支持的饮食建议崩溃时，你可听见了暗箱操作的那一丝丝动静？（这里Can you hear a drip, drip in the background不懂，我只好脑洞了一把，求指教啊~~~）
Of course, we have already had a bitter taste of how hopelessly misleading nutritional orthodoxy can be. It wasn't so long ago that we were spoon-fed the unimpeachable "fact" that we should eat no more than two eggs a week because they contained heart-stopping cholesterol, but that gem of nutritional wisdom had to be quietly erased from history when research showing that cholesterol in eggs had almost no effect on blood cholesterol became too glaringly obvious to ignore.
当然，我们已经尝到了误导正统营养观念有多绝望的苦果。不久前我们还在向人们灌输蛋类含心阻胆固醇所以一周内不宜食用两个以上之类无懈可击的“事实”，但当调查显示蛋类胆固醇对血液胆固醇几乎不造成影响的结论变得昭然若揭难以忽视，选食本能的精华便不得不从历史中被悄然抹去。
The consequences of this egg restriction nostrum were wholly negative: egg producers went out of business and the population missed out on an affordable, natural, nutrient-packed food as it mounded up its breakfast bowl with industrially processed cereals sold in cardboard boxes. But this damage was certainly less grave than that caused by the guidance to abandon saturated fats such as butter, dripping and lard, and choose instead spreads and highly refined liquid oils.
这个蛋类限制秘方的结果受到了完全否决：蛋类生产者歇业了，随着纸盒装加工谷物掩埋餐桌，人们失去了一种实惠、天然、富含营养的食物。这种破坏却明显不及引导人们抛弃黄油、烤肉油、猪油类饱和脂肪，转而选择涂抹酱和高精炼液态油来得严重。
Despite repeated challenges from health advocacy groups, it wasn't until 2010, when US dietary guidelines were amended, that public health advisers on both sides of the Atlantic acknowledged that the chemical process for hardening polyunsaturated oils in margarines and spreads created artery-clogging trans-fats.
尽管健康倡导团体一再挑战，到2010年美国膳食指南修订前，大西洋两岸的公共健康顾问才承认人造黄油以及涂抹酱中不饱和油脂的化学硬化过程会产生堵塞动脉的反式脂肪。
Manufacturers have now reformulated their spreads, hardening them by chemical methods which they assure us are more benign. But throughout the 20th century, as we were breezily encouraged to embrace supposedly heart-healthy spreads, the prescription was killing us. Those who dutifully swallowed the bitter pill, reluctantly replacing delicious butter with dreary marge, have yet to hear the nutrition establishment recanting. Government evangelists of duff diet advice aren't keen on eating humble pie.
生产商已重制其涂抹酱，使用保证对人们更亲和的化学硬化方法。但横看整个20世纪，我们受到鼓励，接受臆想中利于心脏的涂抹酱这样在杀死我们的指示。那些忠实咽下苦果的、迟疑着用沉闷的人造黄油替代美味的黄油的人，终究听到了营养机构撤回前言。持布丁饮食建议的政府布道者对土气的派可没兴趣。
But what lesson can we draw from the cautionary tales of eggs and trans fats? We would surely be slow learners if we didn't approach other well-established, oft-repeated, endlessly recycled nuggets of nutritional correctness with a rather jaundiced eye. Let's start with calories. After all, we've been told that counting them is the foundation for dietetic rectitude, but it's beginning to look like a monumental waste of time. Slowly but surely, nutrition researchers are shifting their focus to the concept of "satiety", that is, how well certain foods satisfy our appetites. In this regard, protein and fat are emerging as the two most useful macronutrients. The penny has dropped that starving yourself on a calorie-restricted diet of crackers and crudités isn't any answer to the obesity epidemic.
那么我们又从蛋类和反式脂肪的警言故事中学到了什么呢？如果不能用带偏见的眼光审视其它行之有效、一再反复、无休止循环利用的营养得当的快餐食品，我们注定将是差生（这句很乱，求指教~~）。咱们先说说拿热量吧。毕竟我们一直被告知计算热量是正确饮食的基础，但它却开始变得像一种对时间的巨大浪费。营养学研究员正缓慢而坚定地将焦点转移到“饱腹”的概念上，即某种食物如何满足我们的口腹之欲。在饱腹这方面，蛋白质和脂肪正成为两类最有效的营养素。人们恍然大悟，原来靠薄饼干和生菜色拉低热量餐、让自己忍饥挨饿并非肥胖流行的解决之道。
As protein and fat bask in the glow of their recovering nutritional reputation, carbohydrates – the soft, distended belly of government eating advice – are looking decidedly peaky. Carbs are the largest bulk ingredient featured on the NHS's visual depiction of its recommended diet, the Eat Well Plate. Zoë Harcombe, an independent nutrition expert, has pithily renamed it the Eat Badly Plate – and you can see why. After all, we feed starchy crops to animals to fatten them, so why won't they have the same effect on us? This less favourable perception of carbohydrates is being fed by trials which show that low carb diets are more effective than low fat and low protein diets in maintaining a healthy body weight.
当蛋白质和脂肪沐浴在营养名誉恢复的荣光里，碳水化合物——政府饮食建议的便便大大腹——则决然消瘦下去。碳水化合物是以英国国民卫生服务体系推荐饮食，膳食平衡盘 ，为特色的最大宗主。独立营养学专家左伊·哈库姆将膳食平衡盘简洁地改称为膳食糟糕盘——你也看到原因了。毕竟我们给动物喂淀粉类作物来催肥，所以淀粉为什么就不能一样催肥人类呢？这种对碳水化合物较少的——正被用于试验，以揭示低碳水化合物饮食比低脂饮食在维持健康体重方面更有效。
When fat was the nutrition establishment's Wicker Man, the health-wrecking effects of sugar on the nation's health sneaked in under the radar. Stick "low fat" on the label and you can sell people any old rubbish. Low fat religion spawned legions of processed foods, products with ramped up levels of sugar, and equally dubious sweet substitutes, to compensate for the inevitable loss of taste when fat is removed. The anti-saturated fat dogma gave manufacturers the perfect excuse to wean us off real foods that had sustained us for centuries, now portrayed as natural born killers, on to more lucrative, nutrient-light processed products, stiff with additives and cheap fillers.
当脂肪作为营养机构的柳条人，食糖破坏民族健康的负面影响又悄悄摸进了监控范围。贴上“低脂”标签，过去的废话人们都信。低脂信仰促成了众多加工食品，这类产品提高糖分，还有同样可疑的甜味替代剂含量来弥补去除脂肪后口味上的必然损失。反饱和脂肪教条给了生产商完美的借口，好让我们放弃供养了人类数百年、如今却说成天生杀手的真正食物，换作利润多多、营养少少、饱含添加剂和廉价馅料的加工品。
In line with the contention that foods containing animal fats are harmful, we have also been instructed to restrict our intake of red meat. But crucial facts have been lost in this simplistic red-hazed debate. The weak epidemiological evidence that appears to implicate red meat does not separate well-reared, unprocessed meat from the factory farmed, heavily processed equivalent that contains a cocktail of chemical additives, preservatives and so on. Meanwhile, no government authority has bothered to tell us that lamb, beef and game from free-range, grass-fed animals is a top source of conjugated linoleic acid, the micronutrient that reduces our risk of cancer, obesity and diabetes.
本着含动物脂肪食物有害健康的观点，我们还被教导要限制红肉摄入。但关键事实已在这场过分简单化的红肉辩论中遗失了。微弱的流行病学证据似乎暗指精心饲养、未加工生产出的红肉与工厂化农场生产、重度加工、饱含化学添加剂、防腐剂之类的肉并无分别。与此同时，没有一家政府机构费心告知我们共轭亚油酸和减小患癌风险的微量营养元素主要来源于羊羔肉、牛肉、以及放养、喂草料生产出的动物产品。
Government diet gurus and health charities have long been engaged on a salt reduction crusade, but what has been missing from this noble effort is the awareness that excessive salt is a problem of processed food. High salt is essential to that larger-than-life processed food taste. Without salt, and a sub-set of assorted chemical flavour enhancers, processed foods would be exposed for what they are: products that have lost their natural savour and nutritional integrity. Salt-free cornflakes, for instance, would be well nigh inedible. No one would want to buy them because they would see that they are a heap of nutritional uselessness. But where is the evidence that salt added as normal seasoning to home cooked food constitutes a health risk?
政府饮食专家和健康慈善机构长久以来一直致力于减盐战，但这份崇高成就中对盐过量来自加工食品的认识却在流失。高盐对加工食品那夸张的味道来说必不可少。没有了盐分外加化学增味剂的集合，加工食品将暴露本质：失去了自然风味和完整营养的产品。例如无盐玉米片变得几乎无法入口。没人想要买这种产品，因为它们毫无营养。但作为家常菜里正常调味的盐分对健康构成风险的证据又在哪儿呢？
With salt, as with sugar, the public health establishment is too cowardly to take on the powerful processed food companies and their lobbyists by drawing a distinction between home-prepared food cooked from scratch and industrial convenience food.
有了盐和糖，公共健康机构忌讳有权有势的食品加工公司以及公司游说者而不敢在一开始就给彻头彻尾的家庭自制食品和工业化方便食品之间划分区别。
The crucial phrase "avoid processed food" appears nowhere in government nutritional guidelines, yet this is the most concise way to sum up in practical terms what is wholesome and healthy to eat. Until this awareness shapes dietetic advice, all government dietary guidance should come with a tobacco-style caution: Following this advice could seriously damage your health.
政府营养指标上就没有关键语“避免加工食品”，然而这句话是总结实践中吃什么才卫生健康的最简洁办法。直到这种认识塑造饮食建议，所有政府膳食指南都该配上烟草式警告：遵循此项建议可能严重损害您的健康。
Joanna Blythman is the author of Bad Food Britain and What to Eat
乔安娜·布莱斯曼为《英国不健康食物》和《吃什么》的作者。
WHAT'S GOOD AND WHAT'S NOT
什么好&什么坏
Eggs
蛋类
We were once told to eat no more than two a week. Now eggs look like the most all-round nutritious food you can eat, so there's no need to limit them.
我们曾被告知一周不宜食用两个以上蛋类。如今蛋类则像是你能吃到的营养最全面的食物了，所以没必要限制蛋类的摄入。
Butter
黄油
The first generation margarine-type spreads turned out to be heart-stoppers, which makes it hard to trust anything the marge industry says. You're safer with good old butter.
第一代人造黄油的普及造就了心阻塞，人造黄油产业的说辞就更难令人信服了。
Red meat
红肉
Processed red meat that's stiff with additives is to be avoided, but meat from free-range, grass-fed cattle is a rich source of conjugated linoleic acid, which reduces our risk of cancer, obesity, and diabetes.
要避免食用饱含添加剂的加工红肉，而通过放养、喂草料生产出的畜肉则富含共轭亚油酸，能够减少罹患癌症、肥胖和糖尿病的风险。
【注】：共轭亚油酸（Conjugated linoleic acid,以下简称CLA）是亚油酸的同分异构体。亚油酸是组成脂肪的多种脂肪酸中的一种，也是人和动物无法合成的一种物质，必须从食物中摄取。
Salt
盐
Processed foods are loaded with the stuff to make them palatable but there's no evidence that salt added in judicious amounts in home cooking is a health problem.
加工食品添加了各种材料以令其美味可口，不过没有证据表明做家常菜时精确盐量是健康问题。
Sugar
糖
Sugar and sweeteners in all forms are best reduced/avoided. Accustom your palate to a less sweet taste.
最好削减/避免各种形式的糖和增甜剂。要习惯少吃甜的东西。
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发表于 2014-4-4 16:10
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