>>>>讲述真实的西藏,Heaven ,our Tibet-组图<<<<

ss-2008

版主辛苦了，强顶起来！

chengjunboy

哥子,你辛苦了啊

ttnz17

西藏真美啊，那群脑残的老外，爱去不去，就坐井观天吧，也就这点出息了他们

Nicolle

【声明】译文版权归ANTI-CNN 所有，谢绝转载！

【精准版】请见94楼，由AC 高级编译dakelv 校正

此文将被收录在ＡＮＴＩ－ＣＮＮ第三期电子杂志，即将发刊。

讲述真实的西藏

2008年4月3日，行遍西藏，让大家了解西藏的美，西藏人民的生活春天已经来了，我们看过了烂漫的油菜花，欣赏了多姿多彩的桃花，更从彼此脸上感悟到季节变换带给大家的开心。
这次，想去青藏高原横断山区瞧瞧，那些贪睡的花骨朵醒没有。
当然，春天的金沙江也不想错过，金沙江这时候用柔美来比喻一点不过分。
还有，藏区的老朋友路过时候也得去打打招呼，幸运的话也可以认识几个新朋友。

Telling the Truth of Tibet

I traveled  all over Tibet to let people know the beauty of Tibet and the lives of Tibetans on April 3 ,2008.
Spring has already come,so we can see many beautiful Rape flowers and colorful peach flowers. What's more ,we can feel the joy that the change of seasons brought to us.
I want to come to Hengduan Mountains on  Qinghai-Tibet Plateau this time to know whether the sleepyheaded flowers wake up or not.
Of course ,I will not miss Jinsha River in the Spring when it can be compared with female charm .
Moreover,some old friends need to be visited by the way.If I am lucky enough ,I may make some new friends .

4月3日下午就准备出发了，还是单人单车。
19：00出成都——雅安高速，进入大名鼎鼎的川藏线。

I set off in the afternoon on April 3, and drived a car as usual.
I left Chengdu and reached the famous Sichuan-Tibet highway from Yaan highway at nineteen o'clock.

20:08停在离二朗山隧道还有50公里的李子坪在十里香餐厅吃鱼。
餐厅朱老板说一路都非常安全。现在一天只有两桌客人，朱老板两口子本来愁死了，听说我是来了解沿途情况的，老两口立即笑眯眯站着，意思是：现在路上安全得很，非常欢迎大家来吃鱼。

I stoped at Liziping which is 50 kilometers from Erlang Mountain Tunnel at eight past eight am.And I ate fish in Shilixiang restaurant. The bosses of the restaurant said that it's very safe all the way .And they were worried about their business because few guests came to their restaurant now. But when they knew that I wanted to learn the situation all along the road, they immediately stood happily to show that it's very safe on the road now and welcome to eat fish in their restaurant.

北京时间01：00的康定
大街随便走，前天卖烧烤的必须晚上12：00收摊，现在可以更晚了。
从成都——康定，仅仅在进入康定城区有个民警检查点，就是问问情况，身份证都没有检查。

At one o'clock， Beijing time I arrived in Kangding.
Strolling along the sreet,I saw people who sold grilled food . They must pack up before twelve o’clock the day before yesterday,but now they can sell for a longer time.
From Chengdu to Kangding,we only saw two police checking-points, they only asked for some informantion and even didn't check my ID card.

凌晨，康定大街上烤新鲜的牦牛肉。
At midnight,fresh meat of yak was grilled on the street of Kangding .

康定上午7:00，现在路上不能停车。
At seven o'clock in Kangding, it was not allowed to stop car on the road.

加油站遇到开短途小客车的藏族老乡，一再说康定安全得很。
I met a Tibetan villager who drived a short-distance coach and he insisted the security of Kangding.

001重返4268米的折多山
I returned to Zheduo Mountain which is 4268 meters.

川藏路 Sichuan-Tibet Highway

今天遇到一个非常特殊的现象，以前藏族老乡都不喜欢陌生人拍摄照片，这次基本是有求必应。
I came across a strange phenomenon today that Tibetan villagers were willing to be taken pictures by strangers which they did't like before.

塔公寺 Tagong temple

到处看见发自内心的微笑，就没有更多好担心的。
As I can see smiles from their deep hearts everywhere,there is no need to worry .

从新都桥就转上川藏北线，整个路上花花绿绿的车就只有一台，以前路上很多车的
Turning to northern Sichuan-Tibet highway from Xindu bridge,I only found one car on the way where there were many cars before.

001跑到川藏北线大名鼎鼎的松林口，有个汽油管接口松了，不断冒汽油。我没有带工具，就开到松林口道班，喊上这个唯一但是不懂汉族的藏族大哥帮忙。
我哧溜就钻到车身下，在里面喊大哥给把刀子，藏族大哥就从道班拿把藏刀出来，我就哼哧哼哧在下面弄。藏族大哥与流鼻涕的儿子就趴在外面看希奇。
一会儿，大哥感觉不对，就去道班找了把改刀给我，这下轻松了许多。

Driving to the famous pine forest in northern Sichuan-Tibet highway,an interface of the gasoline pipe slacked leaking petrol.
But I did't take tools with me ,so I drived to highway maintenance squad and asked for help.There was only a Tibetan villager who did't know Chinese. I went under the the bottom of the car asking for a knife .After the Tibetan villager passed me a Tibetan knife,I tried to repair.He and his son with a runny nose watched curiously lying on their stomaches.
After a while ,he felt something was wrong,so he returned to highway maintenance squad and gave me another knife which helped me a lot.

道孚到处是烂漫的花
Beautiful flowers run riot everywhere in Daofu.

康北藏家庄的藏族大妈，不断、反复、一直给我说：我们道孚安全得很.
A Tibetan aunt who lived in Tibet-village, nothern part of Kangding ,repeated continuously that it's very safe in Daofu.

藏族大妈的女儿也过来补充：我们道孚真的非常安全，如果不安全，我们敢带小乖乖去逛街了
The aunt's daughter came to add ：“ Daofu is very safe now,if not, I will not take my kid out”

道孚餐厅的藏族小姑娘：“大哥，你是这么多天以来，第一个到我们餐厅吃饭的
A Tibetan girl in Daofu restaurant said“Big brother, you are the first guest to came to our restaurant these days”

这是道孚的街上 A street in Daofu.

道孚民居很有特色 Dwelling houses are quite unique in Daofu.

炉霍的道路不经过县城，从边上就穿越过
The road of Luhuo doesn't lead to a county,so I drived through the outskirts.

川藏北线从雪山下穿越而来
Northern Sichuan-Tibet highway lies across the snow mountain.

傍晚时分，进入甘孜县，甘孜藏族同胞的心愿，谁都读得懂，他们都是我随便拦下来
As afternoon drew to a close,I reached Ganmei county where all the residents have the same wish that everyone understands.I shot some of them at random during my way.

我默默跟在这拖拉机后面，认为自己找到了藏族老乡的生活态度
I followed the tractor silently thinking that I have grasped the life attitude of Tibetan villagers.

默默跟了几公里，这家人离开公路走小道，慢慢消失在我的视线
After following several kilometers,the family changed to a path from the highway and disappeared from my sight.

我得到了太多真诚的微笑
I have got too many sincere simles.

我会永远记住这个日子：2008年4月4日，我得到了太多真诚的微笑。
I will always remember the date :April 4,2008,because I got too many sincere smiles.

甘孜县城，北京时间1：05，我在网吧发完照片回宾馆路上拍摄
After uploading pictures in the net bar ,I shot the picture below during mine way back to the hotel at five past one, Beijing time in the Ganmei county.

2008年4月5日6：30，甘孜县城长途客车站各路客车准备发车。
On April 5,2008 at half past six ,long-distance coaches began to depart at a station in Ganmei county.

我也准备出发了
I also started to leave.

清晨中，轻轻给大路口站岗的武警挥挥手，在严寒中站了一夜的武警默默给我点点头。 说真话，我非常喜欢这次遇到的值勤武警，他们从来没有拦下我的车检查，都是礼貌给我一个非常漂亮的通行动作。唯一一次例外，是进入一个重要山口时候，我看见前面雪山太漂亮，就一个急刹。车停下，突然看见前面几个值勤的武警，呵呵，我想这个急刹动作给武警感觉很意外。这几个武警挥手让我过去检查身份证，然后大家又开心说了几句雪山、越野车，在他们注意安全的嘱咐中，我又远去了。

In the morning,I waved gently to a policeman who was on duty all the cold night at a crossing and received his nodding in return. To tell the truth,I enjoyed coming across policemen on duty.And they never made me stop to be checked. Instead,they politely gave me a vigorous gesture to let me go.

路上，只有我孤独的喝彩
Only the road saw my lonely applause

藏族老乡的家笼罩在冷静中
Tibetan houses were immersed in the coldness and silence.

甘孜县到玉树的长途客车呼啸过去 我认为，只要长途客车正常运行的地区，肯定是安全的、和平的、稳定的。
Seeing a long-distance coach from Ganmei county to Yushu city rushed by,I thinked that the district must be very safe if a coach can drive by normally.

雪山开始醒了
Snowy mountains began to wake up.

2008-4-13 01:32

马尼干戈，四川、西藏、青海重要分路口，生活依旧。
Life kept as usual at the roundabout of Mani town,Sichuan, Tibet and Qinghai.

6000多米高的雀儿山主峰
The main summit about 6000 meters high of Queer mountain.

川藏北线一路向西
Northern Sichuan-Tibet highway extends to the west.

新路海还是处于冰雪中
Xinlu sea was still immersed in the icy snow.

海拔4380米的雀儿山三道班，工作了28年的班长李毅民说：“昨天晚上11点才把最后一个车送走，现在西藏方向还没有来车，估计有大货车在雪山上困住了。” 然后，做出一个大胆决定，让新洋的001号越野车带领车队上雪山去。

Monitor Li Yimin who have worked for 28 years at 4380 high Querer mountain in the third highway maintenance squad said that they have seen off the last car at eleven o'clock pm yersterday and there has not been a car from Tibet till now.He thought trucks maybe stucked on the snowy mountain.

[ 本帖最后由 Nicolle 于 2008-10-15 02:12 编辑 ]

Nicolle

[color=blue][b]【精准版】请见95楼，由AC 高级编译dakelv 校正[/b][/color]

Then he made a brave decision to make Xinyang vehicle No.001 lead the fleet go through snowy mountains.

然后让三道班成员贾旭辉写个字条，意思是今天上午先放成都方向的车，明天上午才放西藏方向的车，让新洋带到雀儿山对面道班。
After that,he ordered a member of the third squad to leave a message saying that we will first help cars from Chengdu come through the mountains and then let cars from Tibet go ,and drived Xinyang vehicle to a squad in the opposite side of Queer mountain.

001带的车队
The fleet led by No.001 vehicle.

前进，向目前整个川藏南、北线最危险的雀儿山。
Go ahead and you will see the most dangerous Queer mountain all over Sichuan-Tibet highway.

“428青藏高原拉力赛”的1号车跑到半山腰，它的车队还在山下。
The No.1 car of“428 Qinghai-Tibet Plateau Race Relay Game” has already reached halfway of the mountain,but his fleet still run at the foot of the mountain.

米的雀儿山
Queer Mountain about 5050 meters

这几个四川民工从西藏方向过来，昨夜在雪山上呆了一天。
他们原来去西藏煤矿工作，现在由于炸药不能运输，他们只好返回四川。
Those migrant workers of Sichuan came from Tibet stayed on the snowy mountain all the night yesterday.

德格交通局的几个藏族工作人员亲自动手，钢丝绳都拖断几根。交通局藏族工作人员亲自在弄，要知道这地方这么买力非常累。
Several Tibetan staff in the Derpartment of Transportation at Dege county helped repair wire ropes themselves .You can image how tired it was to work here.  

终于弄通了，感觉交通局几个工作人员很开心。
At last, they cleared the road. I can feel the happiness of all the staff.

这个特殊时期，这个假期，还是有很多人在默默帮助他人。
In such a special circumstance,this holiday, there are still many people who help others silently.

这两个骑摩托的藏族老乡，不知道什么时候上来的。我只看见他们坐在雪地喝啤酒，看见我拍摄非常开心的笑。
I did't know when those two Tibetan villagers on a motorcycle came.But when I took pictures of them,they smiled happily drinking beer on the snow.

又上来两个骑摩托的藏族老乡，看见我拍摄都非常开心。
Here are another two Tibetan villagers on a motorcycle who smiled joyfully.

刚刚下完雀儿山，就看见藏族柯洛洞乡插满红旗。
Just drived down from Queer mountain ,I saw many national flags  in Tibetan Keluodong village.

我问大家；为什么村子里插满红旗？
I asked :why do the villagers insert national flags?

柯洛洞乡的杨红英合着手说：我真心热爱共产党，没有共产党就没有我今天幸福的生活。
Yang Hongying from Keluo village said with her hands closed“I love  Communist Party sincerely because it brings happiness to our lives.”

我说一路走过来，就看见你们村子全部是红旗
I said I drived all the way ,but I only found flags in your village.

柯洛洞乡的藏族大哥松基朴措主动要求在红旗下拍摄一张照片
A picture of national flag shot on the request of a Tibetan villager.

德格县城的藏族女孩子
Tibetan girls of Dege town.

德格印经院
Dege Scripture-printing House

藏族龚垭乡有60户人家，家家都挂了红旗
There are 60 homes at Gongya village ,and all of them hung flags

藏族老乡说起这件事情，都非常自豪。
They were very proud when talking about the phenomenon.

藏族大爷绛措说：我们现在生活越来越好了，真的感谢政府。
Jiang Cuo ,a Tibetan uncle said :We live better and better now. Thanks to  the government.

到了金沙江边上，对面就是西藏。
The opposite side of Jinsha river is Tibet.

金沙江边登记完，过金沙江大桥到西藏，拍摄一张照片又掉头回来。
After shooting the bank of Jinsha river ,I came across Jinsha river bridge to Tibet . I shot another picture and went back.

民警问为什么，我呵呵一笑：“就是要告诉那些骗子，他们一路都在说金沙江不能过去！其实他们根本没有谁到过金沙江边。”
这条道路属于偏僻乡村路，当地藏族老乡根本听不懂汉语，就知道开心的笑
A policeman asked me why and I simled :I want to tell to the liars that they said Jinsha river can not be walked across because none of them have ever come here.
It is a remote path .And Tibetan villagers did't know Chinese ,but they always smiled happily.

两个藏族大姐比画着，意思想坐坐001到前面去，我挥挥手让她们上来。简直没有想到，一个藏族大姐先坐上副驾位置，然后把孩子抱起来，接着另外一个藏族大姐又挤上副驾位置。 我的妈呀，这又不是逃难！！！我赶紧打开后门，让另外一个藏族大姐坐后面。
Two elder Tibetan sisters wanted to go by NO.001 car,and I waved my hand to let them in. To my surprise, one of them sat in the copilot's seat and carried kid in her arms and the other sister  also tried to squeeze into copilot's seat. My god, this was not escape!
So I quickly opened the back door of the car to let she in.

山野集体舞 路过一个正在建的房子，所有藏族兄弟都开心对我呐喊。等我把车停下，拿出相机时候，那场面可以用兴高采烈来形容。屋子上的藏族兄弟都拼命对我挥手，特别是图片上那个正在学鸟飞的藏族兄弟——他当时是边飞边拍着屁股转圈。

Communal Dance in the Field
Coming across a house being built,I saw many Tibetan friends shouted to me.And when I took my camera out, the scene became elated.
Tibetan friends waved their hands to me desperately, especially a Tibatan in the picture below who imitated the flying of birds——he was “flying” with his buttock swaying.

这家藏族老乡，全部都在屋顶上忙碌，看见我的相机以后，全家都在开心的笑。
特别是藏族妈妈，摇摆着双手，如一个16、17岁的可爱女孩子。
这家藏族老乡不会说汉语，却比画着让我去喝茶，我推辞不过，进去坐了几分钟。
All of the Tibetan family  were busy with the building.But when they saw my camera ,they smiled joyfully,especially a Tibetan aunt who waved her hands just like a cute  girl in her sixteen or seventeen.

可爱的藏族老乡，都在向我传递着一份善意。个人慢慢开着，看到金沙江上面这吊桥以后，自己又走到西藏去转悠了一圈。
All the lovely Tibetan villagers conveyed me a kind of goodness.Driving slowly alone,I walked to Tibet again when I saw the drawbridge on Jinsha river.

2008年4月5日，我收获了太多动人的画面。
On April 5,2008 I have taken so many emotional pictures.

做中华人民共和国的公民真好，我们有这么多善良而可爱的兄弟姐妹。
Being citizens of People’s Republic of China are very good ,because we have so many goodnatured and lovely brothers and sisters.

在白玉放完照片已经18：30，计划穿越山岩原始父系氏族部落只能取消。 出城时，问了问两个民警，前面最近的乡村有多远，民警劝我不要走。我反问他们是不是不安全，他们说非常安全，我就说想到藏区的小村子住住，看看是不是真安全。民警说你努力跑3个小时就到一个村子，他们越野车基本三小时到。

After I finished shooting in Baiyu ,it was already half past eighteen.So I have to cancel my plan to drive across Shanyan ancient male line of the original tribal clan. I asked two policemen how far it was to the nearest village ahead when I went out of the city.Then the policeman persued me not to leave and I parried whether it was dangerous .They replied it was very safe ,so I told them I just want to stay in a small village to know whether it was really safe.And they told me it would cost three houres to reach a village because they usually spent three hours .

牦牛赶快让呀，还有100多公里路，必须在天黑前赶
Please got out of the way quickly,yaks. I have to drive 100 kilometers before the night drew.

天已经开始黑时，遇到晚归的牧童，语言没有办法沟通，只好拍摄照片。
It was getting dark,and I only taken pictures of the cowboys  ,because we can not communicate.

他们说什么我听不懂，我说什么他们也听不懂。
I did’t understand what they said,so did they.

爬上沙鲁里雪山，已经漆黑一遍，这时候想问题非常清晰。 现在，我决定去一个地方，只依据以下两个因素：第一，长途客车是不是正常运行；我都开始考虑是不是找个藏族老乡家睡觉去，这个漆黑一遍的村子出现了，准确说就是路上逛满野狗，有几所房子的地方。

When I climbed to the Shalu snowy mountain,it was already dark,but I can think over questions clearly.Now,I decided to go to a place which was decided by two factors below: First,whether long-distance coaches can be operated nomally;Second ,whether I should find a Tibatan villager's home to sleep.Then a village in the darkness appeared ,to be exact ,it was a place that many stray dogs hung around with several houses there.

生活在这里30年的南充夫妇收留了我
A couple who have stayed in Nanchong for thirty years took me in.

这个藏族大姐帮我守车
Tibetan sisiter helped me watch over my car.

睡了一夜的仓储式酒店
A warehouse-like hotel which I slept for a night.

2008年4月6日，我越来越清楚了：藏区的主流民意是渴望稳定的，对当前生活是比较满意的。
On April 6,2008 I knew it clearer snd clearer that the majority of Tibatans hope for stability and they are quite satisfied with their lives at present.

Nicolle

讲述真实的西藏

【精准版】请见96楼，由AC 高级编译dakelv 校正

告别藏族大姐又出发了
After saying good-bye to the Tibatan sister,I went on.

他们都觉得自己非常幸福
All of them felt very satisfied.

2008-4-13 03:00

孩子身体健康、牦牛不生病、闲时喝点青稞、节日跳会锅庄——千万不要把你我的幸福观强加给他们
Children are healthy ;Yaks are not sick ; they can drink barley wine in their spare time and dance Guozhuang at festivals——Never impose your or my concepts of happiness on them.

爬上海子山
Climing to Haizi mountain.

雀儿山脉
A range of Queer mountian

海子山是冰川时代的产物，我们热爱青藏高原
Haizi mountain is the product of icy age ,and we love Qinghai-Tibet Plateau very much.

甘孜县城次序井然
Ganmei town was in a good order.

在甘孜县城欣赏雪山
Appreciating snowy mountains in Ganmei county.

从川藏北线沿雅龚江峡谷横穿到川藏南线
Crossing from nortern Sichuan-Tibat highway along Yagong river gorge,I reached southern Sichuan-Tibat highway.

雅龚江峡谷Yagong river gorge

路遇藏族老乡 Coming across a Tibetan villager

热情的藏族老乡邀请我去家里喝茶
The kind-hearted Tibetan villager invited me to drink tea in his house.

进入理塘 Entering Litang.

让人心凉，往日车来车往的川藏南线，现在一个车影子都看不到。
To my surprised, I can not find a car on southern Sichuan-Tibet highway where many cars drived passed before.

2008年4月7日

我亲眼看了，我亲耳听了，我亲心悟了，绝大多数的藏族老百姓确实是拥护政府的行为。想想看，如果有暴徒准备来抢你家东西，来烧你家房子，难道你不是立即拨打110，难道你不是渴望解放军立即到现场保护你。
绝大多数的藏族老百姓非常朴实，他们明白是政府出钱把房子给修了，把牦牛场给围起来，遇到雪灾、泥石流，政府立即又来救援。
只有一个富裕、强大、统一的国家，才可能大规模的改善人民的生活水平，仅仅靠某个人的力量，只能救济极少数人罢了。
晚上吃了饭，开餐厅的藏族姐妹拼命不让我夜爬高尔寺山，我只好返回雅江睡觉。

On April 7,2008 I heard and I understood that the majority of Tibetans are really in favor of the measures taken by the government .You can considered if a thug was prepared to rob your property and set fire to your house ,wouldn't you call 110,or wouldn't you wish to get protection of the People's Liberation Army immediately?

And most of Tibetans are simple and they understand that it is the government that help them repair their houses , fence yak field for them and  will rescue them immediately if they suffer from snow and mud-rock flow.

Only a wealthy,powerful and united country can improve people's standard of living in a large scale,which is impossible for some person to do.A person can only give relief to few people.

After I had supper ,Tibetan sisiters desperately persuaded me not to climb Gaoersi mountain at night,so I returned to Yajiang to sleep.

凌晨00：30的雅江县城
At midnight half past zero in Yajiang town.

川藏南线在高尔寺山中穿行
Sourthern Sichuan-Tibet highway lies on Gaoersi mountain.

拍摄贡嘎群峰时候，遇到两个成都自驾游越野车。他们问我前面情况怎样，我说县城治安状况比以前好，他们听了哈哈暴笑。
Shooting Gongga mountain peaks, I met two men driving verhicles from Chengdu.They asked about the situation in the town ahead,and I replied that it’s better than before. After hearing this ,they laughed .

几天过去了，折多山的车子又开始多起来。
A few days later,the number of cars began to increase again in Zheduo Mountian.

康定已经与以前差不多了
Kangding is almost the same as it was before.

记得前几天进入康藏地区时候，我还在一路咨询情况。现在，回去的路上，我给沿途遇上的卖蜂蜜的、卖汽油的、卖鱼的、卖香烟的说：

On April 8,2008 I remembered I inquired the situation all the way when I entered into Kangding-Tibet district.But now,on the way back I told honey-sellers ,petrol-sellers and fish-sellers that :
First,most of the Tibatans are kind and they welcome our travel.;
Second ,the security along the way is even better than before ,and people live in good order.
Third,it is safe on the road ,however there are only few cars.

一、藏族同胞绝大多数都是善良的，他们非常欢迎大家去旅游；
二、沿途城镇的治安比以前还好，生活秩序井井有条；
三、路途是安全的，就是车子比较少。

jiejie321

顶上，我去过西藏，那里的人们很热情，好客。完全不是国外那些**们说的，（刚开始时我还以为它们说得是哪个小国了）。西藏是个美丽，神秘的地方，在那里你会受到最热情的款待，看见最美的人们。这是我的经验之谈    如果有机会我会把我的家人都带去看看

HH+Ansion

这么好的帖子我怎么现在才发现
谢谢稀泥的好帖子，透过你的镜头看到了美丽的西藏，还有西藏人们真诚友善的笑脸
一直都想着等以后工作了，一定要背着包去西藏感受它的美~

huang20043

这贴好，羡慕哦，

387961564

老实说,有点脏的说,但是,真开心啊..
可能我们这边的人很难有的

罗格

西藏是圣地,不只是藏民同胞的圣地,也是我们整个中华民族的一方圣地

雪雪

好文章！

zhmz888

thanks lot for your effort!

I will never have a chance to go there... but that is kind of ..... thanks again!

Nicolle

【鸣谢】AC 编译组 高级编译 dakelv 译文校正

【声明】译文版权归 ANTI-CNN 所有，谢绝转载

讲述真实的西藏

Telling real Tibet Stories

2008年4月3日，行遍西藏，让大家了解西藏的美，西藏人民的生活.
Starting from April 3, 2008, I traveled  all across Tibet and here I would like to share with all of you the beauty of Tibet and the lives of Tibetans.

春天已经来了，我们看过了烂漫的油菜花，欣赏了多姿多彩的桃花，更从彼此脸上感悟到季节变换带给大家的开心。
Spring has already come.After we enjoyed many beautiful Canola flowers and colorful peach flowers,we can feel the joy that the change of seasons brought to us.

这次，想去青藏高原横断山区瞧瞧，那些贪睡的花骨朵醒没有。
I want to go to Hengduan Mountains on  Qinghai-Tibet Plateau this time to see whether the sleep-loving  flowers have waken up or not.

当然，春天的金沙江也不想错过，金沙江这时候用柔美来比喻一点不过分。
Of course ,I do not miss Jinsha River, which can be compared with female charms in sprint time .

还有，藏区的老朋友路过时候也得去打打招呼，幸运的话也可以认识几个新朋友。
Moreover,some old friends need to be visited by the way.If I am lucky enough ,I may even make some new friends .

4月3日下午就准备出发了，还是单人单车。
I set off in the afternoon on April 3 ,and  drove a car by myself, as usual.

19：00出成都——雅安高速，进入大名鼎鼎的川藏线。
I left Chengdu and reached the famous Sichuan-Tibet highway from Yaan highway at 19:00.

20:08停在离二朗山隧道还有50公里的李子坪，在十里香餐厅吃鱼。
I stopped at Liziping which is 50 kilometers from Erlang Mountain Tunnel at 20:08. I ate fish in Shilixiang restaurant.

餐厅朱老板说一路都非常安全。现在一天只有两桌客人，朱老板两口子本来愁死了，听说我是来了解沿途情况的，老两口立即笑眯眯站着，意思是：现在路上安全得很，非常欢迎大家来吃鱼。

The bosses of the restaurant said that it was very safe all the way.T were worried about their business because few guests came to their restaurant now. After they knew that I came to him to obtain information on the, they immediately stood up, smiling to us. He was trying to convince us that it was very safe on the road now and we were welcome to eat fish in their restaurant.


北京时间01：00的康定
At one o’clock， Beijing time I arrived in Kangding.
大街随便走，前天卖烧烤的必须晚上12：00收摊，现在可以更晚了。
Strolling along the sreet,I saw people selling grilled food . The day before yesterday, they had to pack up before twelve o’clock, but now they can sell for a longer time.

从成都——康定，仅仅在进入康定城区有个民警检查点，就是问问情况，身份证都没有检查。
From Chengdu to Kangding, we only saw two police checking-points,.the police only asked for some information and didn't even check my ID card.

凌晨，康定大街上烤新鲜的牦牛肉。
At midnight, fresh   yak meat was grilled on the street of Kangding .

康定上午7:00，现在路上不能停车。
At seven o’clock in Kangding, it was not allowed to stop car on the road.

加油站遇到开短途小客车的藏族老乡，一再说康定安全得很。
I met a Tibetan villager who drove a short-distance coach and he insisted that Kanding was very safe.

001重返4268米的折多山
I returned to Zheduo Mountain which is 4268 meters high.

川藏路Sichuan-Tibet Highway

今天遇到一个非常特殊的现象，以前藏族老乡都不喜欢陌生人拍摄照片，这次基本是有求必应。
I found out to my surprise that Tibetan villagers were willing to be taken pictures by strangers which they didn’t like doing before.

塔公寺Tagong temple

到处看见发自内心的微笑，就没有更多好担心的。
As I can see spontaneous smiles everywhere, there is no need to worry.

从新都桥就转上川藏北线，整个路上花花绿绿的车就只有一台，以前路上很多车的
Turning to northern Sichuan-Tibet highway from Xindu bridge,I only found one car on the way where there were many cars before.

001跑到川藏北线大名鼎鼎的松林口，有个汽油管接口松了，不断冒汽油。我没有带工具，就开到松林口道班，喊上这个唯一但是不懂汉族的藏族大哥帮忙。
Driving to the famous pine forest in northern Sichuan-Tibet highway, a gasoline pipe connector of my was loose and gas was leaking. I didn’t bring any tools with me so I stopped and ask a Tibetan man for help. He didn not understand Chinese.

我哧溜就钻到车身下，在里面喊大哥给把刀子，藏族大哥就从道班拿把藏刀出来，我就哼哧哼哧在下面弄。藏族大哥与流鼻涕的儿子就趴在外面看希奇。
I get under the the car asking for a knife .After the Tibetan villager passed me a Tibetan knife,I tried to repair.He and his son with a runny nose watched curiously.

一会儿，大哥感觉不对，就去道班找了把改刀给我，这下轻松了许多
After a while ,he felt something was wrong, so he returned to highway maintenance squad and gave me another knife which helped me a lot.

道孚到处是烂漫的花
Beautiful flowers run wild everywhere in Daofu.

康北藏家庄的藏族大妈，不断、反复、一直给我说：我们道孚安全得很.
A Tibetan woman who lived in Tibet-village, innorthern part of Kangding ,repeatedly assured us that Daofu was very safe.

藏族大妈的女儿也过来补充：我们道孚真的非常安全，如果不安全，我们敢带小乖乖去逛街了
The woman’s daughter came and added ：“ Daofu is very safe now; If not, I would not have taken my kids out.”

道孚餐厅的藏族小姑娘：“大哥，你是这么多天以来，第一个到我们餐厅吃饭的
A Tibetan girl in Daofu restaurant said “Big brother, you are the first guest to come to our restaurant these days.”

这是道孚的街上 A street in Daofu.

道孚民居很有特色 Houses are quite unique in Daofu.

炉霍的道路不经过县城，从边上就穿越过
The road of Luhuo doesn’t pass downtown, so I drove through the outskirts.

川藏北线从雪山下穿越而来
Northern Sichuan-Tibet highway lies across the snow mountain.

傍晚时分，进入甘孜县，甘孜藏族同胞的心愿，谁都读得懂，他们都是我随便拦下来
As afternoon drew to a close, I reached Ganzi county where all the residents have the same wish that everyone understands. I took some pictures randomly on my way.

我默默跟在这拖拉机后面，认为自己找到了藏族老乡的生活态度
I followed the tractor silently thinking that I have a glimpse of the life attitude of Tibetan villagers.

默默跟了几公里，这家人离开公路走小道，慢慢消失在我的视线
After following several kilometers, the family changed to a path from the highway and disappeared from my sight.

我得到了太多真诚的微笑
I have got too many sincere smiles.

我会永远记住这个日子：2008年4月4日，我得到了太多真诚的微笑。
I will always remember the date: April 4,2008, because I got too many sincere smiles.

甘孜县城，北京时间1：05，我在网吧发完照片回宾馆路上拍摄
After uploading pictures in the net bar, I shot the picture below on way back to the hotel at 1:05 AM ,Beijing time, in the Ganzi county.

2008年4月5日6：30，甘孜县城长途客车站各路客车准备发车。
6:30 AM, April 5, long-distance coaches began to depart at a station in Ganzi county.

我也准备出发了
I also started to leave.

清晨中，轻轻给大路口站岗的武警挥挥手，在严寒中站了一夜的武警默默给我点点头。 说真话，我非常喜欢这次遇到的值勤武警，他们从来没有拦下我的车检查，都是礼貌给我一个非常漂亮的通行动作。唯一一次例外，是进入一个重要山口时候，我看见前面雪山太漂亮，就一个急刹。车停下，突然看见前面几个值勤的武警，呵呵，我想这个急刹动作给武警感觉很意外。这几个武警挥手让我过去检查身份证，然后大家又开心说了几句雪山、越野车，在他们注意安全的嘱咐中，我又远去了。

In the morning, I waved gently to a policeman who was on duty all the cold night at a crossing and received his nodding in return. To tell the truth, I enjoyed coming across policemen on duty, and they never stop me and check.  Instead, they politely gave me a vigorous gesture to let me go. The only exception was once when I was just about to enter a major mountain pass. I noticed that the snow mountain ahead of me looked really beautiful, so I brought my vehicle to a sudden stop. After the car was stopped, I suddenly noticed a few armed police on duty. I knew that the police would feel surprised by my sudden stop. They waved to me so I went over and showed them my ID. After chatting with me about the snow mountain and SUV and reminded me to be careful, they waved me good-bye.

路上，只有我孤独的喝彩
I am the only cheerer to myself on the road.

藏族老乡的家笼罩在冷静中
Tibetan houses were immersed in the coldness and silence.

甘孜县到玉树的长途客车呼啸过去 我认为，只要长途客车正常运行的地区，肯定是安全的、和平的、稳定的。
Seeing a long-distance coach from Ganzi county to Yushu city rushed by, I believed that the district must be very safe if there were normal bus services.

雪山开始醒了
Snowy mountains began to wake up.

2008-4-13 01:32  马尼干戈，四川、西藏、青海重要分路口，生活依旧。
Life was as usual at the major crossroads of Mani town, Sichuan, Tibet and Qinghai.

6000多米高的雀儿山主峰
The 6000-meter high main summit of Queer mountain.

川藏北线一路向西
Northern Sichuan-Tibet highway extends to the west.

新路海还是处于冰雪中
Xinlu sea was still immersed in the ice and snow.

海拔4380米的雀儿山三道班，工作了28年的班长李毅民说：“昨天晚上11点才把最后一个车送走，现在西藏方向还没有来车，估计有大货车在雪山上困住了。” 然后，做出一个大胆决定，让新洋的001号越野车带领车队上雪山去。

Group leader Li Yimin who have worked for 28 years at 4380-meter high Querer mountain in the third highway maintenance squad said that they have seen off the last car at eleven o'clock pm yesterday and there had not been a car from Tibet till now. He thought trucks might have been stuck in the snowy mountain. Then we made a brave decision and asked Xinyang’s vehicle No.001 to lead the fleet   through snow mountains.

[ 本帖最后由 Nicolle 于 2008-10-15 02:29 编辑 ]

Nicolle

【鸣谢】AC 编译组 高级编译 dakelv 译文校正

【声明】译文版权归 ANTI-CNN 所有，谢绝转载

然后让三道班成员贾旭辉写个字条，意思是今天上午先放成都方向的车，明天上午才放西藏方向的车，让新洋带到雀儿山对面道班。
After that, he ordered a member of the third squad to leave a message saying that we would first allow cars from Chengdu to come through the mountains and then allow cars from Tibet to pass ,and drove Xinyang’s vehicle to a squad in the opposite side of Queer mountain.

001带的车队
The fleet led by No.001 vehicle.

前进，向目前整个川藏南、北线最危险的雀儿山。
Go ahead and you will see the most dangerous Queer Mountain all over Sichuan-Tibet highway.

“428青藏高原拉力赛”的1号车跑到半山腰，它的车队还在山下。
The No.1 car of “428 Qinghai-Tibet Plateau Race Relay Game” has already reached halfway of the mountain, but his fleet is still  at the foot of the mountain.

米的雀儿山
Queer Mountain is about 5050 meters high.

这几个四川民工从西藏方向过来，昨夜在雪山上呆了一天。
Those migrant workers of Sichuan came from Tibet stayed on the snowy mountain all  night yesterday.

他们原来去西藏煤矿工作，现在由于炸药不能运输，他们只好返回四川。
They were originally going to work in the coal mines in Tibet. Since now explosives could not be transported, they had to return to Sichuan.

德格交通局的几个藏族工作人员亲自动手，钢丝绳都拖断几根。交通局藏族工作人员亲自在弄，要知道这地方这么买力非常累。
Several Tibetan staff in the Department of Transportation at Dege county helped repair wire ropes themselves .You can image how tired it was to work at such an altitude.  

终于弄通了，感觉交通局几个工作人员很开心。
At last, they cleared the road. I can feel the happiness of all the staff.

这个特殊时期，这个假期，还是有很多人在默默帮助他人。
Even in holiday, there are still many people who help others silently.

这两个骑摩托的藏族老乡，不知道什么时候上来的。我只看见他们坐在雪地喝啤酒，看见我拍摄非常开心的笑。
I did’t know when those two Tibetan villagers on a motorcycle came, but when I took pictures of them, they smiled happily while drinking beer on the snow.

又上来两个骑摩托的藏族老乡，看见我拍摄都非常开心。
Here are   two more Tibetan villagers on a motorcycle who smiled joyfully.

刚刚下完雀儿山，就看见藏族柯洛洞乡插满红旗。
Just drove down from Queer mountain ,I saw many national flags  in Tibetan Keluodong village.

我问大家；为什么村子里插满红旗？
I asked : why do the villagers put up national flags?

柯洛洞乡的杨红英合着手说：我真心热爱共产党，没有共产党就没有我今天幸福的生活。
Yang Hongying from Keluo village said with her hands in a praying position “I love  Communist Party sincerely because it brings happiness to our lives.”

我说一路走过来，就看见你们村子全部是红旗
I said I could see from far away that your village was full of flags.

柯洛洞乡的藏族大哥松基朴措主动要求在红旗下拍摄一张照片
A picture of national flag shot on the request of a Tibetan villager.

德格县城的藏族女孩子
Tibetan girls of Dege town.

德格印经院
Dege Scripture-printing House

藏族龚垭乡有60户人家，家家都挂了红旗
There are 60 homes at Gongya village ,and all of them hung flags

藏族老乡说起这件事情，都非常自豪。
They were very proud when talking about the flags.

藏族大爷绛措说：我们现在生活越来越好了，真的感谢政府。
Jiang Cuo ,a Tibetan elder said: We live better and better now. Thanks to the government.

到了金沙江边上，对面就是西藏。
The opposite side of Jinsha river is Tibet.

金沙江边登记完，过金沙江大桥到西藏，拍摄一张照片又掉头回来。
After shooting the bank of Jinsha river , I came across Jinsha river bridge to Tibet. I shot another picture and went back.

民警问为什么，我呵呵一笑：“就是要告诉那些骗子，他们一路都在说金沙江不能过去！其实他们根本没有谁到过金沙江边。”
A policeman asked me why and I simled : I want to tell to the liars who said Jinsha river could not be walked across because none of them have ever come here.

这条道路属于偏僻乡村路，当地藏族老乡根本听不懂汉语，就知道开心的笑
It is a remote path. Tibetan villagers did't know Chinese, but they always smiled happily.

两个藏族大姐比画着，意思想坐坐001到前面去，我挥挥手让她们上来。简直没有想到，一个藏族大姐先坐上副驾位置，然后把孩子抱起来，接着另外一个藏族大姐又挤上副驾位置。 我的妈呀，这又不是逃难！！！我赶紧打开后门，让另外一个藏族大姐坐后面。

Two elder Tibetan sisters wanted a ride on NO.001 car, and I waved my hand to let them in. To my surprise, one of them sat in the copilot's seat and carried kid in her arms and the other sister also tried to squeeze into copilot's seat. My god, we were not refugees! I quickly opened the back door of the car to let the other sit at the back in.

山野集体舞
Communal Dance in the Field

路过一个正在建的房子，所有藏族兄弟都开心对我呐喊。等我把车停下，拿出相机时候，那场面可以用兴高采烈来形容。屋子上的藏族兄弟都拼命对我挥手，特别是图片上那个正在学鸟飞的藏族兄弟——他当时是边飞边拍着屁股转圈。

Passing by a house being built, I heard many Tibetan friends shouted to me.  When I took my camera out, the scene became elated. Tibetan friends waved their hands to me desperately, especially a Tibetan in the picture below who imitated the flying of birds——he was “flying” with his buttock swaying.


这家藏族老乡，全部都在屋顶上忙碌，看见我的相机以后，全家都在开心的笑。 特别是藏族妈妈，摇摆着双手，如一个16、17岁的可爱女孩子。这家藏族老乡不会说汉语，却比画着让我去喝茶，我推辞不过，进去坐了几分钟。

All of the Tibetan families  were busy with the building, but when they saw my camera ,they smiled joyfully. Tibetan woman who didn’t speak Chinese used sign language to ask us come in for tea. Unable to resist her hospitality, I went in a stayed for several minutes.

可爱的藏族老乡，都在向我传递着一份善意。个人慢慢开着，看到金沙江上面这吊桥以后，自己又走到西藏去转悠了一圈。

All the lovely Tibetan villagers showed me their kindness. Driving slowly alone,I walked to Tibet again when I saw the drawbridge on Jinsha river.

2008年4月5日，我收获了太多动人的画面。
April 5,2008 I have so many moving memories.

做中华人民共和国的公民真好，我们有这么多善良而可爱的兄弟姐妹。
It’s really nice to be a citizen of the People’s Republic of China, because we have so many good-natured and lovely brothers and sisters.

在白玉放完照片已经18：30，计划穿越山岩原始父系氏族部落只能取消。 出城时，问了问两个民警，前面最近的乡村有多远，民警劝我不要走。我反问他们是不是不安全，他们说非常安全，我就说想到藏区的小村子住住，看看是不是真安全。民警说你努力跑3个小时就到一个村子，他们越野车基本三小时到。

After I finished shooting in Baiyu, it was already half past eighteen so I have to cancel my plan to drive across Shanyan ancient matriarchal clanof the original tribal clan. I asked two policemen how far it was to the nearest village ahead when I went out of the city.Then the policeman tried to persuade me not to leave.  I asked them whether it was dangerous. They replied it was very safe , so I told them I just wanted to stay in a small village to know whether it was really safe.   They told me it would take three hours to reach a village because that was how long it would take their Jeep.


牦牛赶快让呀，还有100多公里路，必须在天黑前赶
Please get out of the way quickly, yaks. I have to drive 100 kilometers before dusk.

天已经开始黑时，遇到晚归的牧童，语言没有办法沟通，只好拍摄照片。
At dusk, I came across late-returning herdsmen. I only took pictures of,because we could not communicate.

他们说什么我听不懂，我说什么他们也听不懂。
I didn’t understand what they said, neither did they understand me.

爬上沙鲁里雪山，已经漆黑一遍，这时候想问题非常清晰。 现在，我决定去一个地方，只依据以下两个因素：第一，长途客车是不是正常运行；我都开始考虑是不是找个藏族老乡家睡觉去，这个漆黑一遍的村子出现了，准确说就是路上逛满野狗，有几所房子的地方。

When I climbed to the Shalu snowy mountain, it was already dark, could think clearly. Now, whether I decide to go to a place or not would depend on whether there were bus services. Second ,whether I should find a Tibatan villager's home to stay over night.Then a village in the darkness appeared, To be exact ,it was a place With some homeless wild dogs and a few houses.

生活在这里30年的南充夫妇收留了我
A couple who have stayed in Nanchong for thirty years took me in.

这个藏族大姐帮我守车
Tibetan sister helped me watch over my car.

睡了一夜的仓储式酒店
A warehouse-like hotel which I slept for a night.

2008年4月6日，我越来越清楚了：藏区的主流民意是渴望稳定的，对当前生活是比较满意的。
On April 6,2008 I knew it clearer and clearer that the majority of Tibetans hope for stability and they were quite satisfied with their lives at present.  



[ 本帖最后由 Nicolle 于 2008-10-15 02:30 编辑 ]

Nicolle

【鸣谢】AC 编译组 高级编译 dakelv 译文校正

【声明】译文版权归 ANTI-CNN 所有，谢绝转载

告别藏族大姐又出发了
After saying good-bye to the Tibatan sister,I went on.

他们都觉得自己非常幸福
All of them felt very satisfied.

2008-4-13 03:00
孩子身体健康、牦牛不生病、闲时喝点青稞、节日跳会锅庄——千万不要把你我的幸福观强加给他们
Children are healthy; Yaks are not sic ; they can drink barley wine in their spare time and dance Guozhuang at festivals——Never impose your concepts of happiness on them.

爬上海子山
Climing to Haizi mountain.

雀儿山脉
A range of Queer mountian

海子山是冰川时代的产物，我们热爱青藏高原
Haizi mountain is the product of icy age, and we love Qinghai-Tibet Plateau very much.

甘孜县城次序井然
Ganzi town was in a good order.

在甘孜县城欣赏雪山
Appreciating snowy mountains in Ganzi county.

从川藏北线沿雅龚江峡谷横穿到川藏南线
Crossing from northern Sichuan-Tibat highway along the Yagong river gorge,I reached southern Sichuan-Tibat highway.

雅龚江峡谷Yagong river gorge

路遇藏族老乡 Coming across a Tibetan villager

热情的藏族老乡邀请我去家里喝茶
The kind-hearted Tibetan villager invited me to drink tea in his house.

进入理塘 Entering Litang.

让人心凉，往日车来车往的川藏南线，现在一个车影子都看不到。
My heart sank when I could not find a car on southern Sichuan-Tibet highway where many cars d passed by before.

2008年4月7日
我亲眼看了，我亲耳听了，我亲心悟了，绝大多数的藏族老百姓确实是拥护政府的行为。想想看，如果有暴徒准备来抢你家东西，来烧你家房子，难道你不是立即拨打110，难道你不是渴望解放军立即到现场保护你。

April 7,2008. I heard and I saw and I understood that the majority of Tibetans are really in favor of the measures taken by the government . Think about it: if a thug was going to rob your property and set fire to your house, wouldn't you call 110,or wouldn't you wish to get protection from the People's Liberation Army immediately?

绝大多数的藏族老百姓非常朴实，他们明白是政府出钱把房子给修了，把牦牛场给围起来，遇到雪灾、泥石流，政府立即又来救援。
And most of Tibetans are simple and they understand that it is the government that help them repair their houses, fence yak field for them and  will rescue them immediately if they suffer from snow and mud-rock flow.

只有一个富裕、强大、统一的国家，才可能大规模的改善人民的生活水平，仅仅靠某个人的力量，只能救济极少数人罢了。
Only a wealthy, powerful and united country can improve people's standard of living in a large scaleA single  person could only give relief to few people.

晚上吃了饭，开餐厅的藏族姐妹拼命不让我夜爬高尔寺山，我只好返回雅江睡觉。
After supper,the Tibetan sisters who owned the restaurant desperately persuaded me not to climb the Gaoersi mountain at night, so I returned to Yajiang for the night.

凌晨00：30的雅江县城
00:30. A Yajiang town.

川藏南线在高尔寺山中穿行
Sourthern Sichuan-Tibet highway lies on Gaoersi mountain.

拍摄贡嘎群峰时候，遇到两个成都自驾游越野车。他们问我前面情况怎样，我说县城治安状况比以前好，他们听了哈哈暴笑。
While taking pictures at the peak of the Gongga mountain, I met two men driving verhicles from Chengdu. They asked about the situation in the town ahead, and I told them that it was better than before. After hearing this, they laughed .

几天过去了，折多山的车子又开始多起来。
A few days later, the number of cars began to increase again in Zheduo Mountian.

康定已经与以前差不多了
Kangding is almost the same as it was before.

记得前几天进入康藏地区时候，我还在一路咨询情况。现在，回去的路上，我给沿途遇上的卖蜂蜜的、卖汽油的、卖鱼的、卖香烟的说：
On April 8,2008 I remembered  that kept asking for information about the situation all the way when I entered into Kangding-Tibet district. Now, on the way back, I told honey-sellers, petrol-sellers and fish-sellers that :

一、藏族同胞绝大多数都是善良的，他们非常欢迎大家去旅游；
First, most of the Tibatans are kind and they welcome us to go there as tourists.;

二、沿途城镇的治安比以前还好，生活秩序井井有条；
Second , the security along the way is even better than before , and people live in good order.

三、路途是安全的，就是车子比较少。
Third, it is safe on the road; however there are not many vehicles.



[ 本帖最后由 Nicolle 于 2008-10-15 02:30 编辑 ]