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[翻译完毕] 【联合翻译】2009年12月号《国家地理杂志》新疆专题:The Other Tibet(另一个西藏)

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发表于 2009-11-24 21:47 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式
本帖最后由 vivicat 于 2009-11-28 02:27 编辑

阅读此文前可先看站内的一个相关介绍:http://bbs.m4.cn/thread-208202-1-1.html
【原文链接】http://ngm.nationalgeographic.com/2009/12/uygurs/teague-text/1(原网站上分为9页)

The Uygurs, Muslim people of China’s resource-rich far west, are becoming strangers in their own land as Han Chinese pour in. Like the Tibetans, who face similar pressures, some Uygurs see a chance for a better life, but others protest the disintegration of their culture, even at the risk of death.


By Matthew Teague
Photograph by Carolyn Drake

1       事情当然还是从乌鲁木齐“七五”事件讲起。。。

The first several seconds of the incident in Urumqi seemed almost lighthearted, considering the previous week. And they revealed nothing about what would follow. A cool front had swept over the city on this particular day in July, drawing people from their homes. Some shops stayed closed because their windows had been shattered, but food vendors pushed their carts out onto the street. A week earlier an ethnic clash had broken out here, killing almost 200 people in one of China’s most deadly protests since the Tiananmen Square massacre two decades ago. So the Chinese government had sent tens of thousands of security forces into the city, the capital of the Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region, to restore order between the Han and the Uygurs. The Han dominate Chinese society, but the Uygurs (pronounced WEE-gurs), a Turkic-speaking Central Asian people, claim this western borderland as their ancestral home.

Han security forces stood in ranks along every street in the city's Uygur quarter. They bristled with riot gear and automatic weapons. The only sound came from loudspeakers mounted on trucks that trawled the market streets, broadcasting the good news of ethnic harmony. If Urumqi had an edge of unrest on this Monday, it was sheathed in silence.

Most Uygurs are Muslims, and about noon I stood on the street in front of a central mosque wondering how many people might be inside. As if in answer, a mass of humanity came pouring out, hundreds of people tumbling and plunging into the street.

Bystanders watched, puzzled, but the emerging crowd offered only odd and inscrutable clues: Many hadn't had time to pull on their shoes and ran in just their socks. They cried out with alarm or possibly in celebration, and their faces glowed with either fear or joy. If they were fleeing from danger, there was no sign of it, and the group split and flew north and south. In the flicker of a moment they had disappeared.

Now three men stepped from the mosque, holding what looked like wooden sticks. One wore a blue shirt, one a black shirt, and one a white shirt. They shouted and smiled, which gave their faces a buoyant quality. Their tiny rally seemed brash: Did they not see the Chinese police on every corner or hear the amplified news about manifest happiness?

They turned southward. All three walked with peculiar long strides and waved their sticks overhead, like three baton-twirling drum majors whose marching band had run ahead of them. They passed rows of market stalls where people shouted to them to stop whatever they were doing. Shop owners slammed shut their stall doors. After two blocks the men stopped and turned back north; just before they reached me, they crossed the street. They still held up what were, more likely, rusted swords.

Once across the street, they burst into a run, heading toward a group of armed Chinese. The man in blue sprinted ahead; he seemed to catch the government forces off guard, because they turned and ran. The details of the next moment—the angle of the running man, his shirt billowing behind him, the strange coolness of the air—were etched by a sound: a gunshot. But the three Uygurs did not stop in the face of destruction. They tilted toward it.

2  先提下西藏,再接着说新疆(下边主要是从地理上讲)

The Tibetan struggle for independence from China has long captivated the West. Fewer people are familiar with an arguably more critical struggle in a neighboring hinterland: that of the Uygurs. Their anonymity is ironic because the West has played an unwitting role in their current crisis—and because the Uygurs, whose culture is fading toward obscurity, once occupied the center of the known world.

Xinjiang sits in the middle of Asia, encircled by some of Earth's highest mountains, as though a drawstring had cinched the top of the world like a coin purse. Passes through those snowy mountains funneled ancient traders and travelers along paths that became the renowned Silk Road. "They say it is the highest place in the world," Marco Polo wrote of climbing the Pamir mountains from the Afghanistan side. When he emerged from the pass, he found the Uygur homeland and marveled: "From this country, many merchants go forth about the world."

The territory became the fulcrum on which Asia and Europe balanced. Turkic raiders and later Genghis Khan, Buddhists and then Muslims, traders and tribesmen, missionaries and monks—all passed through this hemispheric crossroads, and each group left something of itself. I saw a Uygur woman wearing a Muslim head cover and holding her baby, whose head she had shaved into phantasmagoric designs, a pre-Islamic shamanistic practice to frighten away baby-stealing evil spirits. Xinjiang's history is also written in the faces of its people: dark faces with oval eyes. Also fair faces with narrow, jet eyes. And sometimes blue eyes with blond hair.

Geography itself protects the mosaic of Uygur culture in Hotan, in far southwestern Xinjiang. A range of snowcapped mountains rises at the town's back, and before it lies the Taklimakan, a desert larger than Poland, which people sometimes call the Sea of Death. Hotan's inhabitants are mostly farmers, and many of them come together each Sunday outside the town for a bazaar where children eat sweetened ice shaved from chunks that float down the Karakax (Black Jade) River, women browse tents full of silk, and men gather to have their beards trimmed while they tell jokes.

It's an old scene, although there is an occasional sign of technology: Knifemakers sit in long rows on ancient bicycles they've reconfigured to spin grindstones, looking like an invading horde of spark-spitting cyclists. A young Uygur man named Otkur (the names of Uygurs in Xinjiang have been changed for their protection) shared his bowl of sheep's lung with me, and afterward we approached an astonishing device: a two-story-high swing set with a seat big enough for two people to stand on. Otkur smiled. "For playing," he said. Two women climbed onto the ends of the seat and swung so high they disappeared into tree branches.

In town I met Dawud, a music master who teaches a small group of students. In his school a large mural showed a mashrap, a traditional all-male gathering—now closely regulated by the Chinese—where Uygurs convene to play music, recite poetry, and socialize. Dawud fashioned a fingerpick from a piece of wire and some twine, flicked his fingers across the five strings of a tambur, and launched into a series of complex songs with roots that reach back at least five centuries.

3    接下来也讲一些历史

Those patchwork elements of Uygur life underscore something crucial about the Uygurs as a whole: Centuries of living at a great Eurasian way station have made them a complicated people who defy careless classification. But in time the world forgot this, with disastrous results.

As the Silk Road began to fray and trade took to the seas, both East and West lost interest in the Uygurs and their mountain fastness. For generations China saw little promise in this remote land—Xinjiang means "new frontier"—because the Chinese prized agriculture, and the wild west offered only dust and stones. People there ate mutton, not pork. In 1932 a British officer traveling in Xinjiang wrote with dark foresight, "Perhaps an awakening China, wondering where to settle its surplus millions of people, may have the good sense to call in the science of the West and to develop [Xinjiang]." But through the early 20th century, the Chinese government did not extend its influence to the distant region, and the Uygurs twice declared their own independent country. The second attempt at self-determination, in 1944, lasted five years, until the rise of Mao and the Chinese Communist Party, which sent in military forces and later established a nuclear testing ground, Lop Nur, in Xinjiang to eliminate any confusion.

Realizing that, if nothing else, its big, empty territory provided a buffer against foreign influence, Mao's China instituted a program called the Xinjiang Production and Construction Corps—combining farm, military garrison, and prison—in which settlers from other Chinese provinces would work the soil and watch the borders. The first arrivals, in 1954, included more than 100,000 demobilized soldiers. Some were coerced, but the flow gathered momentum as the government extended a railroad west to Urumqi in 1962 and used promises of food and clothing to entice residents from overcrowded cities like Shanghai.

Meanwhile the Chinese were discovering that Xinjiang offered far more than just a border cushion: It held something vital to their very survival as a nation. Xinjiang contains about 40 percent of China's coal reserves and more than a fifth of its natural gas. Most important, it has nearly a fifth of the nation's proven oil reserves, although Beijing claims it holds as much as a third. Never mind the massive deposits of gold, salt, and other minerals. Xinjiang isn't empty. It's strategic. And with that realization, other things came sharply into focus for China's leadership: Xinjiang is the largest, most far-flung region. It borders more countries than any other. And it's home to an ethnic group that has tried twice in living memory to make a break for freedom.

4   下边开始讲到民族矛盾了,不过“1947年维吾尔第二次典型独立”的说法不知是怎么来的?可查证下

In 1947, during the second incarnation of Uygur independence, about 220,000 Han Chinese made up 5 percent of Xinjiang's population. Uygurs numbered about three million, or 75 percent, the remainder being a mix of Central Asian ethnicities. By 2007 the Uygur population had increased to 9.6 million. But the Han population had swelled to 8.2 million.

Some Uygurs found opportunity in the influx. In the 1980s in burgeoning Urumqi, a laundress named Rebiya Kadeer grew her business into a department store, then built that into an international trading empire. She became one of the wealthiest people in China and an inspiration for her compatriots—a Uygur woman who appeared in Asia's Wall Street Journal and met with such businessmen as Bill Gates and Warren Buffett. In many ways she seemed emblematic of Xinjiang: In the last two decades of the 20th century the region's GDP increased tenfold.

But many more Uygurs languished. The big business in Xinjiang is oil, but all that oil is controlled from Beijing by state-owned energy companies. Many of the good jobs in Xinjiang are government jobs, and employees can advance more readily if they join the Communist Party, which requires renouncing their religion. And most Uygurs won't do that. The result is an ironic and combustible symmetry: As Han settlers pour in, Uygurs, unable to find work in their fantastically wealthy and spacious homeland, migrate east to work in privately owned factories in crowded coastal cities.

In the past few decades local resistance has flared up around Xinjiang, fluctuating in scale and violence. During the 1980s Uygur students protested treatment by police in a handful of incidents; in 1990 a disturbance south of Kashgar against birth limits ended in perhaps four dozen deaths. In 1997 hundreds of people in a city called Gulja marched to protest repression of Islamic practices and were arrested; the number of casualties is unknown. Other examples abound, including bus bombings and assassinations.

The Chinese government realized that it had a problem in Xinjiang, much as it had a problem in neighboring Tibet. Along with regulating mashraps—those traditional gatherings—the state monitored services at mosques, afraid they might provide a platform for dissidents. In general, officials downplayed the unrest as the work of isolated "ruffians" in a Uygur population that was otherwise blissful. In early September 2001, Xinjiang Communist Party Secretary Wang Lequan announced in Urumqi that "society is stable, and people are living and working in peace and contentment."

5   在作者看来,911似乎也是中国政府借机宣传的工具

A few days later Beijing received a potent and unexpected propaganda tool: September 11.

As America and much of the West launched the "war on terror," China recognized the momentum of global public opinion and chose a new tack. The shift happened so fast it came with an almost audible crack. On October 11 a spokesman for the Chinese Foreign Ministry described China as "a victim of international terrorism." Then the government issued a report on unrest in Xinjiang blaming none other than Osama bin Laden. "It's an effective strategy," says James Millward, a professor at Georgetown University and an expert on Xinjiang, "because in America we see Muslims somewhere who are unhappy and maybe even violent, and we assume it's because of religious reasons."

And just like that, the Uygurs—with the complexity of their culture, the richness of their past, the fullness of their grievance against the Chinese state—fell into a tidy classification. China asked the United States to include a group of militant separatist Uygurs on its list of terrorist organizations but was rebuffed—at least at first.

In December 2001, 22 Uygurs were captured in Pakistan and Afghanistan, where they may have received weapons training with the intent of battling the Chinese military back in Xinjiang. The men were rounded up by bounty hunters, handed over to U.S. forces, and sent to Guantánamo Bay. (Years later a U.S. court would order their release.) In August 2002 Deputy Secretary of State Richard Armitage traveled to Beijing to discuss, among other issues, America's upcoming mission in Iraq. While there, he announced a reversal in the U.S. stance: A militant Uygur group called the Eastern Turkistan Islamic Movement would now be listed as a terrorist organization.

The heart of Uygur tradition is the ancient capital of Kashgar. Today its Old City looks much as it must have when Marco Polo spied it after descending through the mountain pass—a warren of passageways and ancient mud-brick homes that resemble a jumble of oversize children's blocks. Early this year the Chinese government undertook a bold step: They began systematically bulldozing the Old City block by block and moving the inhabitants into a new compound on the edge of town.

6   下边几段讲的是作者采访一个维族人的经过(Ahun,阿訇?)

Uygurs don't discuss the subject in public for fear of imprisonment, but one man who lives in the Old City, Ahun, agreed to talk with me in his home. A rendezvous would not be easy, because for days the Chinese security services had been following me. I was to wait in the main square during the busy midday until I saw him pass under Mao's statue, then follow at a distance without acknowledgment.

As we walked through city streets, he stopped casually to take a drink of water at a cart and later to tie his shoe. Finally we entered the Old City. The Chinese government's ostensible reason for demolishing the neighborhood is that it's too old to withstand an earthquake. But there may be another motive. As Ahun and I wove our way deeper into the warren, I watched his shoulders relax and his gait loosen. He was hard to trace in here. The Old City is a refuge.

The homes are adjacent and interconnected, and each is two stories high and arranged around a central courtyard. I followed Ahun up a flight of stairs, and when he flung open the door, it struck me that these homes are like oysters: On the outside they're drab and crude, but on the inside whitewashed plaster walls gleam, and many-colored rugs complement painted ceilings. "I pray. When I worship, I ask Allah, 'Rescue me my house,' " Ahun said. From his house he has a clear view of a government wrecking crew at work on a nearby home. According to the demolition schedule, they'll arrive at Ahun's home in three years.

He was born in the house, he said. So was his father. So was his grandfather, after his great-grandfather built it on family land. "I have two sons," he said. That's five generations who have lived in the same house.

If Hotan represents Xinjiang's past—with a Uygur majority that gathers to sharpen knives, trim beards, sing songs—then Kashgar is its present. Uygurs still make up most of the city's population, but their culture here is embattled. The government is working fast to tear it down.

Given enough time, Ahun said, China's economic development will bring political change, and hope for his people. "China will be obliged to receive a democratic system," he said. But right now, for a man who prays each day for the survival of his family home, no act is too desperate. "You do not understand our rage," he said. "In the Middle East there are human bombs, who connect their bodies with bombs. But with our rage, we don't need bombs connected. We ourselves explode."

7  下边回顾的是“七五”的前后,不过“韶关临近香港”的说法让人很汗。。。

In June of this year, a disgruntled worker at a toy factory in Shaoguan, near Hong Kong, reportedly claimed that Uygurs had raped two women. A melee followed. The violence lasted several hours and left scores injured. Angry Han workers in the factory's dormitory beat to death two Uygur co-workers.

This spark lit a fire 2,000 miles away, in Xinjiang. On July 5 thousands of Uygurs—the numbers reported varied widely—took to Urumqi's streets to protest the treatment of the Uygur workers. The authorities were caught off guard.

I spoke to a young woman named Arzigul, who had attended the protest. She said it started off peacefully as young people circulated around the capital's public square. "They were screaming the name 'Uygur! Uygur! Uygur!' " she said. When security forces arrived, something happened—exactly what is unclear. Each side says the other struck first, but at some point the authorities tried to quell the crowd, which apparently devolved into a mob attacking Han on the street. Two days later a group of Han—apparently numbering in the thousands—took to the street with meat cleavers and clubs and knives. They in turn attacked Uygurs.

Chinese officials say they're protecting their citizens from terrorists. In July, Vice Foreign Minister He Yafei called the riots "a grave and violent criminal incident plotted and organized by the outside forces of terrorism, separatism, no comma after separatism in original source and extremism." James Millward, the Xinjiang expert, says many Han—even officials—sincerely believe Xinjiang faces a threat from terrorists and interlopers. "It's what they are constantly told." Eventually military forces and police clamped down on Urumqi, and there seemed no possibility of further unrest. That's when the three men emerged from the mosque in the Uygur quarter, scattering people in every direction.

I watched them stride up the street and back, then run at the Chinese forces. First came the single shot, which missed. The Uygurs continued their charge, and I realized that the running men with their rusted swords did not expect to prevail. They expected to die.

A moment later another officer released a burst of automatic fire. The lead Uygur—the man in the flowing blue shirt—fell with the sudden slackness of a thrown rag doll. His body hit the pavement, but the momentum of his sprint sent him tumbling, and his feet flew up and over his head.

For a few seconds the incident played out in tableau on the opposite sidewalk. The remaining two Uygurs ran into the street, and the scene became three-dimensional, with bullets flying in my direction. I ran into a nearby building and found myself in the lobby of an enormous department store. People pressed themselves into corners and behind clothing displays; women wailed, and two men improvised a door lock by shoving a metal bar through the door's handles. Beyond the building's glass doors, all three of the Uygur men now lay in the street, one injured and two dead. Soldiers, police, and plainclothes security officers were firing upward, into the windows of surrounding buildings.

8   热大妈终于出场了。。。

The department store held special significance for the Uygurs. It belonged to their heroine Rebiya Kadeer, the laundress turned mogul who had become beloved after she began to speak out against China's treatment of the Uygurs. In 1999, as an American delegation arrived in China to meet Kadeer, security officers arrested her. She spent the next six years in prison, then joined her exiled husband in the U.S. Her imprisonment only raised her status among her people, who regard her as the "mother of all Uygurs."

She's a grandmother, just over five feet tall, and she terrifies the Chinese authorities. Mentioning her name in Xinjiang brings swift and severe punishment. When I went with Ahun to his home in Kashgar's Old City, he spoke freely of rebellion against China's government, but when I mentioned Rebiya Kadeer, he froze. "If China finds this," he said, pointing to my voice recorder and then reaching for my throat in mock vengeance, "on Judgment Day I will catch your neck."

After the July riots, trucks with loudspeakers circled the public squares of Urumqi, proclaiming that the unrest had been organized by Kadeer from her office in Washington, D.C. Chinese officials accused her in news reports around the globe and were said to be planning to tear down her trade centers. "The Chinese authorities are fearful of me because of what they have been doing to the Uygur people," she told me recently. In her office an enormous East Turkistan flag—symbol of a free Uygur nation—hangs on one wall, and photos of her 11 children, two of whom are in prison, hang on another.

The Western world knows of the struggle for freedom by Tibetans largely because the Dalai Lama presents a warm and charismatic embodiment of his people. The Uygurs have remained obscure, in part, because they have no such figure. But the Chinese government's recent efforts to demonize Rebiya Kadeer have lifted her into a representative role. "I keep advocating for my people, for the self-determination of Uygurs," she told me. Whether that means autonomy within China or a push for full independence depends on the government's reaction, she said. "At the moment I'm trying to invite the Chinese authorities to come to the dialogue peacefully."

9 不过个人感觉最恶的还是最后这两段的论调。。。

Even as Kadeer spoke, another round of strife loomed in Xinjiang—rumors, allegations, protests—and she acknowledges that a peaceful resolution may be impossible. After seeing the region's past and present through Hotan and Kashgar, we may be glimpsing its future in Urumqi: a sprawling city that serves Han migrants drawn by Xinjiang's natural resources, where a Uygur minority stays confined to its quarter.

And on an otherwise silent Monday afternoon, men detonate on the street from the sheer force of their rage.





091126212533e59b791d6a9dcb.jpg



rlsrls08 认领1-2

我认领1-2吧,惭愧,那边另外一篇认领的还没动手呢。先翻译这篇
rlsrls08 发表于 2009-11-27 03:31


音乐盒认领3-4

认领3、4吧,可能没那么快出炉。
音乐盒 发表于 2009-11-28 01:12


杨威利认领5-6

我领5-6.。。。。。。
杨威利 发表于 2009-11-28 02:06


忧心认领7-9

下剩的包圆儿了
忧心 发表于 2009-11-28 02:22

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发表于 2009-11-24 22:54 | 显示全部楼层
rhapsody辛苦了
這個可以翻譯的
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 楼主| 发表于 2009-11-24 23:30 | 显示全部楼层
rhapsody辛苦了
這個可以翻譯的
CC_best 发表于 2009-11-24 22:54

那就有劳各位版主着手组织人员联手翻译啦^^。另个人建议翻完可发在“国家地理”版,和该版另一个国家地理杂志1996年新疆之旅的帖子形成对照:http://bbs.m4.cn/thread-204689-1-1.html
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发表于 2009-11-26 18:08 | 显示全部楼层
那就有劳各位版主着手组织人员联手翻译啦^^。另个人建议翻完可发在“国家地理”版,和该版另一个国家地理杂志1996年新疆之旅的帖子形成对照:http://bbs.m4.cn/thread-204689-1-1.html ...
rhapsody 发表于 2009-11-24 23:30
a good idea
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 楼主| 发表于 2009-11-26 21:25 | 显示全部楼层

原文网页截图

jt5.jpg
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发表于 2009-11-27 03:31 | 显示全部楼层
我认领1-2吧,惭愧,那边另外一篇认领的还没动手呢。先翻译这篇
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发表于 2009-11-28 01:12 | 显示全部楼层
认领3、4吧,可能没那么快出炉。
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发表于 2009-11-28 02:06 | 显示全部楼层
我领5-6.。。。。。。
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发表于 2009-11-28 02:22 | 显示全部楼层
下剩的包圆儿了
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发表于 2009-11-28 03:47 | 显示全部楼层
翻译在此

几天之后北京获得的一个意想不到的有力宣传工具:9.11

随着美国和其他许多西方国家发动了“反恐战争”,中国认清了国际舆

论的方向和力量,并且选择了一个新的策略。这种转变发生的如此之快

,甚至伴随着几乎可以听见的断裂声(与之前的论调相左)。10月11日

,中国外交部的一个发言人把中国形容为“国际恐怖主义的受害者”。

随后政府公布了一个报告,把新疆的不安局面归咎于本拉登。“这是一

个有效的策略”,James Millward,乔治敦大学的教授,新疆问题专家

指出:“因为在美国当我们发现穆斯林在其它地方生活的不高兴甚至诉

诸于暴力的时候,我们会认为这是宗教的原因。”

就像这样,维吾尔族------伴随他们复杂的文化,丰富的历史,他们对

中国政府的满腹牢骚------一起被简单的归类了。中国要求美国把一些

维吾尔族激进分子团体列入恐怖主义组织名单,但是被拒绝了------至

少在一开始被拒绝了。

在2001年12月,22位维吾尔人在巴基斯坦和阿富汗被逮捕。在那里他们

可以接受武器训练从而回到新疆后对抗中国军队。这些人被赏金猎人所

捕获并移交给美军,并被监禁在关塔纳摩湾。(数年后美国法庭下令释

放他们。)在2002年8月副国务卿Richard Armitage前往北京会谈,一

个重要议题是美军即将在伊拉克展开的行动。在北京,他宣布了美国立

场的逆转:一个激进的维吾尔人组织------“东突厥斯坦伊斯兰运动组

织”现在被列入恐怖主义组织名单。

维吾尔族的传统核心之一是古都喀什。今天这座古城------在马克波罗

穿越山隘发现它之后------变得更加拥挤,古老的泥砖房就像是一盒混

乱的大号儿童积木一样堆在一起。今年早些时候中国政府进行了大胆的

一步:他们开始系统的逐区推倒旧城区并且把居民迁到城市边缘的新居

所。


维吾尔族人在公开场合由于恐惧和禁令不敢反对这一政策。但是一个叫

Ahun的住在老城区的人同意和我在他家中进行谈话。这样一个谈话并不

容易,因为中国的国安局已经跟踪了我好几天。我在主广场的中午的热

闹时间等待他,直到我看见他穿过毛主席雕像,然后保持一个不引人注

目的距离跟着他。

我们穿过城市的街道,他在一辆手推车前面若无其事地停下,喝水并绑

了下他的鞋。最后我们终于进入了老城。中国政府表面上拆除老城的理

由是老城太旧无法抵御地震的威胁。但是也许他们还有别的动机。随着

我和Ahun更加深入老城,我感觉他更加的放松。他在这里难以被跟踪,

老城就是一个庇护所。

老城的房子相互毗邻并且有连接,通常有2层楼高。围绕着中央天井而

建。我跟随着Ahun上了楼梯。当他打开门,我震惊于这些房子就像牡蛎

一般。外表看起来黄褐色而且粗糙,但是里面确是微微发光的白色石灰

墙,许多彩色的地毯装饰着天花板。“我祈祷,当我朝拜的时候,我请

求安拉,救救我的房子”Ahun说到。从他的房子,它可以清楚的看到政

府的拆除对正在拆除附近的房屋。根据拆除计划,在3年内他们将开始

拆除Ahun的房子。

他在这房子里出生,他说道,就像他的父亲,他的祖父在他曾祖父建了

这座房子之后在此出生一样。“我有两个孩子”他说道。所以有五代人

曾住在同一栋房子中。

如果说和田代表了新疆的过去------维吾尔人佩戴着锋利的刀子,整齐

的胡须,唱着歌------那么喀什则代表着新疆的现在。维吾尔人仍然是

城市的主要人口,但他们的文化则在此陷入困境。政府则在加剧这一困

境。

只要有足够的时间,Ahun说道,中国的经济发展将会带动政治体制的变

革,并给他的人民带来希望。“中国将被迫接受民主体制。”他说道,

但是现在,对于一个每天祈祷能保存他家房子的人来说。没有什么行为

是太激进的。“你不了解我们的愤怒。”他说,“在中东,那里有人肉

炸弹,那些人把自己和炸弹绑在一起。但是我们是如此的愤怒,我们不

需要绑炸弹,我们自己就会爆炸。”

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发表于 2009-11-28 04:01 | 显示全部楼层
汗颜,楼上这么快。。。我得面壁去。。。
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发表于 2009-11-28 10:13 | 显示全部楼层
樓上諸位編譯辛苦了
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发表于 2009-11-28 19:43 | 显示全部楼层
汗颜,楼上这么快。。。我得面壁去。。。
音乐盒 发表于 2009-11-28 04:01


你的质量高
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发表于 2009-11-29 07:36 | 显示全部楼层
哈哈,又是我的楼上。。。周末愉快啊~~

3    接下来也讲一些历史

Those patchwork elements of Uygur life underscore something crucial about the Uygurs as a whole: Centuries of living at a great Eurasian way station have made them a complicated people who defy careless classification. But in time the world forgot this, with disastrous results.
维族人生活中那些修补工作的元素凸显出维族整体的一些关键之处:世世代代生活在欧亚大陆通道的必经之处,这使得他们成为一个十分注重类别划分的复杂民族。而一旦世界忘了注意这点,就会产生灾难性的结果。

As the Silk Road began to fray and trade took to the seas, both East and West lost interest in the Uygurs and their mountain fastness. For generations China saw little promise in this remote land—Xinjiang means "new frontier"—because the Chinese prized agriculture, and the wild west offered only dust and stones. People there ate mutton, not pork. In 1932 a British officer traveling in Xinjiang wrote with dark foresight, "Perhaps an awakening China, wondering where to settle its surplus millions of people, may have the good sense to call in the science of the West and to develop [Xinjiang]." But through the early 20th century, the Chinese government did not extend its influence to the distant region, and the Uygurs twice declared their own independent country. The second attempt at self-determination, in 1944, lasted five years, until the rise of Mao and the Chinese Communist Party, which sent in military forces and later established a nuclear testing ground, Lop Nur, in Xinjiang to eliminate any confusion.
当丝绸之路开始磨蚀,贸易经由海路,东西方都对维吾尔人及其山川要塞失去了兴趣。世世代代,中国在这块偏僻的土地上看不到什么希望——新疆意思是“新的疆域”——因为中国鼓励农业,而荒凉的西部只有沙石。那里的人吃羊肉,而不是猪肉。1932年,一位走进新疆的英国军官带着隐约的预感写道:“也许当中国踌躇着不知如何安置上千万过剩人口时,可能会醒悟到要运用西方科学来发展新疆。”但是,贯穿整个20世纪早期,中国政府并未扩展他们对这一边远地区的影响力,而维吾尔人两次宣称独立。1944年第二次企图自主,持续了5年,直到毛泽东和中国共产党崛起,他们出兵,后来还在新疆罗布泊建立了一个核基地以消除骚乱。

Realizing that, if nothing else, its big, empty territory provided a buffer against foreign influence, Mao's China instituted a program called the Xinjiang Production and Construction Corps—combining farm, military garrison, and prison—in which settlers from other Chinese provinces would work the soil and watch the borders. The first arrivals, in 1954, included more than 100,000 demobilized soldiers. Some were coerced, but the flow gathered momentum as the government extended a railroad west to Urumqi in 1962 and used promises of food and clothing to entice residents from overcrowded cities like Shanghai.
在意识到它辽阔的地域可以为抵御外侵提供缓冲之后,毛领导下的中国创立了一个称作新疆发展与建设兵团的项目——集农耕、军事驻防与监狱于一身——来自中国其他省份的人们在那里安家落户,耕耘土地,守卫边防。1954年的首批到达人员包括10万复员士兵。有些人是被强制的,但当政府在1962年修建了一段向西延伸到乌鲁木齐的铁路并承诺保证衣食以引诱人口过度拥挤城市(比如上海)的居民后,(向新疆)流动的势头加剧。

Meanwhile the Chinese were discovering that Xinjiang offered far more than just a border cushion: It held something vital to their very survival as a nation. Xinjiang contains about 40 percent of China's coal reserves and more than a fifth of its natural gas. Most important, it has nearly a fifth of the nation's proven oil reserves, although Beijing claims it holds as much as a third. Never mind the massive deposits of gold, salt, and other minerals. Xinjiang isn't empty. It's strategic. And with that realization, other things came sharply into focus for China's leadership: Xinjiang is the largest, most far-flung region. It borders more countries than any other. And it's home to an ethnic group that has tried twice in living memory to make a break for freedom.,
与此同时,中国人渐渐发现,新疆能够提供的远远不只是边界缓冲:它掌握着一些对他们作为一个民族来说生死攸关的东西。新疆有中国煤储备的40%和天然气的五分之一。最重要的是,它拥有中国已探明石油储存的五分之一,尽管北京称它手中拥有三分之一(译注:我没明白这段)。更不用说黄金、盐和其他矿藏的巨大资源了。新疆并非空空如也,它具有战略意义。意识到这点后,其他情况便集中呈现在了中国领导层的面前:新疆是最大最偏远的地区,与其他省份相比,它接壤的国家更多,它是某个少数民族的家乡,而这个民族的两次企图独立自由,在人们脑海里仍记忆犹新。

4   下边开始讲到民族矛盾了,不过“1947年维吾尔第二次典型独立”的说法不知是怎么来的?可查证下:

In 1947, during the second incarnation of Uygur independence, about 220,000 Han Chinese made up 5 percent of Xinjiang's population. Uygurs numbered about three million, or 75 percent, the remainder being a mix of Central Asian ethnicities. By 2007 the Uygur population had increased to 9.6 million. But the Han population had swelled to 8.2 million.1
1947年,在相当于维吾尔的第二次独立期间,约22万汉人组成了新疆人口的5%。维吾尔族有300万人,合人口的75%,剩下的由中亚种族的混合组成。到2007年,维吾尔族人口增至960万。但是汉族人口增到了820万。

Some Uygurs found opportunity in the influx. In the 1980s in burgeoning Urumqi, a laundress named Rebiya Kadeer grew her business into a department store, then built that into an international trading empire. She became one of the wealthiest people in China and an inspiration for her compatriots—a Uygur woman who appeared in Asia's Wall Street Journal and met with such businessmen as Bill Gates and Warren Buffett. In many ways she seemed emblematic of Xinjiang: In the last two decades of the 20th century the region's GDP increased tenfold.
一些维吾尔人在人口涌入中发现了机遇。19世纪80年代,在迅速发展中的乌鲁木齐,一位叫热比娅的洗衣女工将她的生意发展成一处商店,然后将它建成了一个国际商业帝国。她成为中国最富有的人之一,并鼓舞了她的同胞们——一位维吾尔族妇女出现在亚洲华尔街杂志上,还会见比尔盖茨和巴菲特这样的生意人。在很多方面,她似乎是新疆的象征:在20世纪的最后20年里,这个地区的GDP增长了十倍。

But many more Uygurs languished. The big business in Xinjiang is oil, but all that oil is controlled from Beijing by state-owned energy companies. Many of the good jobs in Xinjiang are government jobs, and employees can advance more readily if they join the Communist Party, which requires renouncing their religion. And most Uygurs won't do that. The result is an ironic and combustible symmetry: As Han settlers pour in, Uygurs, unable to find work in their fantastically wealthy and spacious homeland, migrate east to work in privately owned factories in crowded coastal cities.
但是更多的维吾尔人受冷落。新疆的大生意是石油,但所有的石油都是受北京国有能源公司控制的。新疆的许多好工作是政府工作,如果加入共产党,员工们能更容易发展,但是加入共产党就要放弃他们的宗教。大多数维吾尔人不愿这么做。结果便是具有讽刺意味的、一点就着的对称局面:汉族人涌入定居,而维吾尔人在他们非常富裕和广阔的家乡找不到工作,他们迁徙到东部沿海拥挤的城市为私企工作。

In the past few decades local resistance has flared up around Xinjiang, fluctuating in scale and violence. During the 1980s Uygur students protested treatment by police in a handful of incidents; in 1990 a disturbance south of Kashgar against birth limits ended in perhaps four dozen deaths. In 1997 hundreds of people in a city called Gulja marched to protest repression of Islamic practices and were arrested; the number of casualties is unknown. Other examples abound, including bus bombings and assassinations.
过去数十年间,全新疆爆发地方抵抗,波动升级,暴力。19世纪80年代,维吾尔学生抗议警察对少数事件的处理;1990年,喀什葛尔南部因反对生育限制发生骚乱,最后以约四五十人的死亡而告终。1997年,上千人在伊宁游行抗议对伊斯兰教活动的镇压而被捕;伤亡人数不详。其他还有大量事例,诸如公共汽车爆炸和暗杀。

The Chinese government realized that it had a problem in Xinjiang, much as it had a problem in neighboring Tibet. Along with regulating mashraps—those traditional gatherings—the state monitored services at mosques, afraid they might provide a platform for dissidents. In general, officials downplayed the unrest as the work of isolated "ruffians" in a Uygur population that was otherwise blissful. In early September 2001, Xinjiang Communist Party Secretary Wang Lequan announced in Urumqi that "society is stable, and people are living and working in peace and contentment."
中国政府意识到它在新疆的麻烦比在邻省西藏的还要大。除了控制礼拜(译注:mashraps,不知道中文称什么呢?)——传统集会——政府了诸如清真寺这样的设施,担心他们可能会为异见分子提供一个平台。通常,官员们将骚乱低估成是维吾尔人口中的少量“流氓”所为,而大部分人是极为快乐的。 2001年9月初,新疆党委书记王乐泉宣称乌鲁木齐“社会稳定,人民安居乐业。”

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 楼主| 发表于 2009-11-29 14:41 | 显示全部楼层
本帖最后由 rhapsody 于 2009-11-29 15:15 编辑
 ...
中国政府意识到它在新疆的麻烦比在邻省西藏的还要大。除了控制礼拜(译注:mashraps,不知道中文称什么呢?)...
音乐盒 发表于 2009-11-29 07:36

麦西热甫”,该词源自阿拉伯(ماشراپ?根据语言学院版“维吾尔语学习”帖中所教方法瞎拼的),原意为“聚会、场所”,现在维吾尔族民间专门用其来称谓群众性的娱乐聚会。维吾尔刀郎麦西热甫已入选我国国家级非物质文化遗产名录。
详情参见:http://www.ihchina.cn/inc/yichanjingcui/mkm/inc/mkmncye03.html
以及参见:http://www.ihchina.gov.cn/inc/guojiaminglunry.jsp?gjml_id=497

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发表于 2009-11-29 19:24 | 显示全部楼层
“麦西热甫”,该词源自阿拉伯(ماشراپ?根据语言学院版“维吾尔语学习”帖中所教方法瞎拼的),原意为“聚会、场所”,现在维吾尔族民间专门用其来称谓群众性的娱乐聚会。维吾尔刀郎麦西热甫已入选我国国家 ...
rhapsody 发表于 2009-11-29 14:41

呵呵,多谢解答。
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发表于 2009-12-1 18:32 | 显示全部楼层
In June of this year, a disgruntled worker at a toy factory in Shaoguan, near Hong Kong, reportedly claimed that Uygurs had raped two women. A melee followed. The violence lasted several hours and left scores injured. Angry Han workers in the factory's dormitory beat to death two Uygur co-workers.

据报道,今年六月,在香港附近的韶关,一位心怀不满的玩具工厂工人声称有维吾尔人强奸了两名妇女。谣言引发了一场斗殴,暴力持续了几个小时,造成大量人员受伤。愤怒的汉族工人在工厂宿舍区打死了两名维族同事。

This spark lit a fire 2,000 miles away, in Xin jiang. On July 5 thousands of Uygurs—the numbers reported varied widely—took to Urumqi's streets to protest the treatment of the Uygur workers. The authorities were caught off guard.

这点火星引燃了2000英里外新疆的大火。75日,上千名维吾尔人(各种报道所称的人数大相径庭)走上乌鲁木齐街头,抗议维吾尔工人遭到的对待。当局对此措手不及。

I spoke to a young woman named Arzigul, who had attended the protest. She said it started off peacefully as young people circulated around the capital's public square. "They were screaming the name 'Uygur! Uygur! Uygur!' " she said. When security forces arrived, something happened—exactly what is unclear. Each side says the other struck first, but at some point the authorities tried to quell the crowd, which apparently devolved into a mob attacking Han on the street. Two days later a group of Han—apparently numbering in the thousands—took to the street with meat cleavers and clubs and knives. They in turn attacked Uygurs.
我采访了一位名叫Arzigul的年轻女子,她参加了示威。她说,一开始,年轻人绕着首府的公共广场和平抗议。“他们尖叫着‘维吾尔!维吾尔!维吾尔!’”她说。当安全部队到达时,事件发生了——但到底发生了什么仍有疑义。双方都说是对方先发起的攻击,但是某一时刻,当局试图镇压示威民众,人群显然转而在街头暴力攻击汉人。两天后,一群汉人——显然有上千人——手持刀具棍棒走上街头。他们想去攻击维吾尔人。

Chinese officials say they're protecting their citizens from terrorists. In July, Vice Foreign Minister He Yafei called the riots "a grave and violent criminal incident plotted and organized by the outside forces of terrorism, separatism, no comma after separatism in original source and extremism." James Millward, the Xinjiang expert, says many Han—even officials—sincerely believe Xinjiang faces a threat from terrorists and interlopers. "It's what they are constantly told." Eventually military forces and police clamped down on Urumqi, and there seemed no possibility of further unrest. That's when the three men emerged from the mosque in the Uygur quarter, scattering people in every direction.

中国官方称他们正在保护公民免遭恐怖分子的袭击。7月,外交部副部长何亚非称这起骚乱为“一起由境内外民族分裂势力、宗教极端势力和暴力恐怖势力精心策划和组织的严重暴力犯罪。新疆问题专家米华健(James Millward说许多汉人——甚至包括政府——确实相信新疆面临着恐怖分子和境外干涉势力的威胁。“这是他们经常说起的。”终于,军队和警察封锁了乌鲁木齐,进一步的骚乱似乎不可能发生了。而就在此时,3个人冲出了维吾尔聚居区的一家清真寺,驱散开四面八方的人群。

I watched them stride up the street and back, then run at the Chinese forces. First came the single shot, which missed. The Uygurs continued their charge, and I realized that the running men with their rusted swords did not expect to prevail. They expected to die.

我眼见着他们大步穿过街道又折返回来,然后冲向中国军队。第一颗子弹射了过来,但是没有打中。维吾尔人继续进攻,于是我意识到,这些手持生锈刀具奔跑着的人们不期望胜利。他们准备赴死。

A moment later another officer released a burst of automatic fire. The lead Uygur—the man in the flowing blue shirt—fell with the sudden slackness of a thrown rag doll. His body hit the pavement, but the momentum of his sprint sent him tumbling, and his feet flew up and over his head.

很快,另一名军官射出了一梭子子弹。领头的维吾尔人——他穿着一件宽松的蓝色衬衫——突然软倒了下去,就像一个被扔出的玩偶。他的身体撞上了路面,但是奔跑的余势使他滚倒,他的脚飞起来越过了他的头。

For a few seconds the incident played out in tableau on the opposite sidewalk. The remaining two Uygurs ran into the street, and the scene became three-dimensional, with bullets flying in my direction. I ran into a nearby building and found myself in the lobby of an enormous department store. People pressed themselves into corners and behind clothing displays; women wailed, and two men improvised a door lock by shoving a metal bar through the door's handles. Beyond the building's glass doors, all three of the Uygur men now lay in the street, one injured and two dead. Soldiers, police, and plainclothes security officers were firing upward, into the windows of surrounding buildings.

几秒内,对面的人行道上上演了这一冲突。剩下的两名维吾尔人跑上街头,场景变得那样真实,子弹飞到了我所在的方向。我跑进了附近的一座大楼,发现自己正身处于一家大型百货公司的大厅。人们躲进角落里,藏在衣服货架后面。女人在哭泣,两个男人把一根金属棍子插到门把手中间充当门闩。透过大楼的玻璃门,可以看到现在三个维吾尔人全都倒在了街道上,一个受伤,两个死了。士兵、警察和便衣安全人员向着上方开枪,射击四周大楼的窗户。

The department store held special significance for the Uygurs. It belonged to their heroine Rebiya Kadeer, the laundress turned mogul who had become beloved after she began to speak out against China's treatment of the Uygurs. In 1999, as an American delegation arrived in China to meet Kadeer, security officers arrested her. She spent the next six years in prison, then joined her exiled husband in the U.S. Her imprisonment only raised her status among her people, who regard her as the "mother of all Uygurs."

这栋百货大楼对于维吾尔人来说有着特殊的意义。它曾属于他们的女英雄热比娅,这位从洗衣女工成为商界大亨的女性在她开始呼吁反对维吾尔人遭受到的中国的对待后变得备受敬爱。1999年,由于一个美国代表团来到中国要会见热比娅,安全人员逮捕了她。她随即在狱中度过了六年,然后追随她流亡的丈夫来到美国。她的入狱仅仅提高了她在她的人民中的地位,他们把她看做“维吾尔之母”。

She's a grandmother, just over five feet tall, and she terrifies the Chinese authorities. Mentioning her name in Xinjiang brings swift and severe punishment. When I went with Ahun to his home in Kashgar's Old City, he spoke freely of rebellion against China's government, but when I mentioned Rebiya Kadeer, he froze. "If China finds this," he said, pointing to my voice recorder and then reaching for my throat in mock vengeance, "on Judgment Day I will catch your neck."

她是一位祖母,刚刚过5英尺高,但是她让中国当局害怕。在新疆,提到她的名字会受到即刻而严厉的惩罚。当我跟随Ahun来到他在喀什老城区的家时,他随意地谈到了反抗中国政府,但是当我提及热比娅时,他沉默了。“如果中国发现了的话,”他指着我的录音机说,随即摸着我的脖子做出报复的手势:“在最后的审判日我会掐住你的脖子。”

After the July riots, trucks with loudspeakers circled the public squares of Urumqi, proclaiming that the unrest had been organized by Kadeer from her office in Washington, D.C. Chinese officials accused her in news reports around the globe and were said to be planning to tear down her trade centers. "The Chinese authorities are fearful of me because of what they have been doing to the Uygur people," she told me recently. In her office an enormous East Turkistan flag—symbol of a free Uygur nation—hangs on one wall, and photos of her 11 children, two of whom are in prison, hang on another.

7月的骚乱过后,装有扩音器的卡车开始绕着乌鲁木齐的公共广场行驶,正式宣布说这起骚乱是由热比娅从她在华盛顿的办公室里组织的。中国官方在新闻报道中向全世界指控她,并称他们计划要拆毁她的贸易中心。“中国官方因为他们对维吾尔人做下的事而怕我。”她最近对我说。在她的办公室里,一面巨大的东突旗帜——象征着维吾尔人的自由国家——挂在一面墙上,她11个孩子的照片挂在另一面墙上,其中2人正呆在监狱里。

The Western world knows of the struggle for freedom by Tibetans largely because the Dalai Lama presents a warm and charismatic embodiment of his people. The Uygurs have remained obscure, in part, because they have no such figure. But the Chinese government's recent efforts to demonize Rebiya Kadeer have lifted her into a representative role. "I keep advocating for my people, for the self-determination of Uygurs," she told me. Whether that means autonomy within China or a push for full independence depends on the government's reaction, she said. "At the moment I'm trying to invite the Chinese authorities to come to the dialogue peacefully."

西方之所以知道藏人为自由而进行的奋斗,主要是因为达赖喇嘛作为他的人民的化身,展现出来的热情与魅力。维吾尔人仍然不为人知,部分原因就是他们没有这样的代表人物。中国政府最近妖魔化热比娅的努力将她抬到了代表人的角色上。“我会坚持为我的人民说话,主张维吾尔人的自治权。”她对我说。这种自治权是意味着在中国范围内的自治还是争取到完全的独立取决于政府的回应,她说。“现在,我正尝试着和平地邀请中国当局进行对话。”

Even as Kadeer spoke, another round of strife loomed in Xinjiang—rumors, allegations, protests—and she acknowledges that a peaceful resolution may be impossible. After seeing the region's past and present through Hotan and Kashgar, we may be glimpsing its future in Urumqi: a sprawling city that serves Han migrants drawn by Xinjiang's natural resources, where a Uygur minority stays confined to its quarter.


甚至就在热比娅说这话的时候,在新疆,另一轮冲突正在酝酿——谣言、指控、抗议——她承认,和平的解决方法或许不可能存在。在看到和田及喀什地区的过去和现在之后,我们也许能够窥见乌鲁木齐的未来:一个无计划摧毁林田建造厂房的城市,它为汉人移民服务,汲取新疆的自然资源,而少数民族维吾尔人则被限制呆在他们的聚居区里。


And on an otherwise silent Monday afternoon, men detonate on the street from  the sheer force of their rage.

于是在另一个寂静的周一下午,人们的愤怒带来的十足的力量将在街头爆发。

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发表于 2009-12-1 21:33 | 显示全部楼层
James Millward有个中文名字叫米华健。

那次“独立”,大略如下:有位维族仁兄领导了一起农民起义,然后建立了一个“国家”自命总统。这个政权从未被任何其他国家承认过。实际上这个政权就是当时的中国遍地都是的一个军阀政权。后来这位军阀打不过另一个汉族军阀金树仁,就被收编做了他的副手。金树人后来又被盛世才取代,这位盛世才先是拉拢苏联和中共,后来投了老蒋杀了毛泽东他弟弟毛泽民,最后还是斗不过老蒋丢了地盘之身跑台湾去了……

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发表于 2009-12-2 01:38 | 显示全部楼层
Most important, it has nearly a fifth of the nation's proven oil reserves, although Beijing claims it holds as much as a third.

更重要的是,它拥有该国几乎一半的已探明石油储量,虽然北京称它最多只储有中国三分之一的石油。

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发表于 2009-12-2 12:43 | 显示全部楼层

1-2

本帖最后由 rlsrls08 于 2009-12-2 12:45 编辑

The first several seconds of the incident in Urumqi seemed almost lighthearted, considering the previous week. And they revealed nothing about what would follow. A cool front had swept over the city on this particular day in July, drawing people from their homes. Some shops stayed closed because their windows had been shattered, but food vendors pushed their carts out onto the street. A week earlier an ethnic clash had broken out here, killing almost 200 people in one of China’s most deadly protests since the Tiananmen Square massacre two decades ago. So the Chinese government had sent tens of thousands of security forces into the city, the capital of the Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region, to restore order between the Han and the Uygurs. The Han dominate Chinese society, but the Uygurs (pronounced WEE-gurs), a Turkic-speaking Central Asian people, claim this western borderland as their ancestral home.

相对于前一周而言,乌鲁木齐事件(译者注: 指的是三个暴徒行凶事件)在最初几秒钟的时间几乎可以说是轻松的。他们根本没意识到将会发生什么。7月的这一天,凉爽空气扫过乌鲁木齐市,人们走出家门。有些商店没开门,因为他们的窗户被打碎了,但食品商贩推着车子上街售货。一个星期前这里爆发了种族冲突,造成了将近200人死亡,成为20年前天安门大屠杀之后中国死亡人数最多的抗议活动之一。因此,中国政府派遣了数以万计的安全部队进入新疆维吾尔自治区首府乌鲁木齐市,以维持汉族和维吾尔族之间的秩序。汉人主宰中国社会,但维吾尔族,一个说突厥语的中亚民族,声称西部边疆地区是他们世世代代的家园。

Han security forces stood in ranks along every street in the city's Uygur quarter. They bristled with riot gear and automatic weapons. The only sound came from loudspeakers mounted on trucks that trawled the market streets, broadcasting the good news of ethnic harmony. If Urumqi had an edge of unrest on this Monday, it was sheathed in silence.

汉人的安全部队在维族居住区的每条街道上列队站着。他们带着防暴装备和自动武器。唯一的声音就是穿梭市区街道的卡车上安装的喇叭,播放着民族和谐的好消息。如果本周一乌鲁木齐曾经有过不安宁的锋刃,那么这刀刃已经在沉默中入鞘了。

Most Uygurs are Muslims, and about noon I stood on the street in front of a central mosque wondering how many people might be inside. As if in answer, a mass of humanity came pouring out, hundreds of people tumbling and plunging into the street.

大部分维族人是穆斯林。中午时分我站在一个主要的清真寺前,猜想里头大概有多少人。我的问题马上得到了答案,一大群人蜂拥而出,几百人涌到街上。

Bystanders watched, puzzled, but the emerging crowd offered only odd and inscrutable clues: Many hadn't had time to pull on their shoes and ran in just their socks. They cried out with alarm or possibly in celebration, and their faces glowed with either fear or joy. If they were fleeing from danger, there was no sign of it, and the group split and flew north and south. In the flicker of a moment they had disappeared.

旁观者看着他们,不明所以,但涌出的人群莫名其妙:许多人没来得及穿鞋,只穿着袜子就跑了出来。他们大声嚎叫,是报警,也可能是庆祝。他们的脸上流露出恐惧或者喜悦。没有任何迹象表明他们是在逃离危险。人群分成两半从北边和南边离开。一瞬间他们就消失了。

Now three men stepped from the mosque, holding what looked like wooden sticks. One wore a blue shirt, one a black shirt, and one a white shirt. They shouted and smiled, which gave their faces a buoyant quality. Their tiny rally seemed brash: Did they not see the Chinese police on every corner or hear the amplified news about manifest happiness?

这时三名男子走出清真寺,拿着看起来像木棍的东西。一人身穿蓝色衬衫,一人身穿黑色衬衫,另一个穿白衬衫。他们欢呼着,微笑着,显得很轻松。他们的小型集会看起来似乎有点傲慢:难道他们没有看到每一个角落都有警察,或听到夸大其词的幸福和谐新闻?

They turned southward. All three walked with peculiar long strides and waved their sticks overhead, like three baton-twirling drum majors whose marching band had run ahead of them. They passed rows of market stalls where people shouted to them to stop whatever they were doing. Shop owners slammed shut their stall doors. After two blocks the men stopped and turned back north; just before they reached me, they crossed the street. They still held up what were, more likely, rusted swords.

他们转向南行。三人都迈着大步走,举过头顶挥舞着棍棒,像三个鼓手随着乐队行进。他们穿过一排排的市场摊位,人们大声喊让他们停止。商贩们赶紧关门。经过两个街区后,男子停下来转身往北,还没走到我站的地方他们就穿过马路。仍然举着看似生锈长剑的东西。

Once across the street, they burst into a run, heading toward a group of armed Chinese. The man in blue sprinted ahead; he seemed to catch the government forces off guard, because they turned and ran. The details of the next moment—the angle of the running man, his shirt billowing behind him, the strange coolness of the air—were etched by a sound: a gunshot. But the three Uygurs did not stop in the face of destruction. They tilted toward it.

过街之后,他们突然跑起来,冲向一群中国的武装人员。穿蓝色衣服的男子全速奔跑,他似乎将政府部队打了个措手不及,因为部队人员转身跑了。下一个时刻的细节--奔跑中的男人的角度,身后扬起的衬衫,空气中奇怪的凉风--被一个声音蚀刻了: 一声枪响。但三位维吾尔族男子并没有被枪声吓住。他们反而往那个方向去。

The Tibetan struggle for independence from China has long captivated the West. Fewer people are familiar with an arguably more critical struggle in a neighboring hinterland: that of the Uygurs. Their anonymity is ironic because the West has played an unwitting role in their current crisis—and because the Uygurs, whose culture is fading toward obscurity, once occupied the center of the known world.

西藏人争取从中国独立的斗争很早就已经迷住西方。但较少人知道在相邻的腹地可以说是更为关键的斗争:即维吾尔族的独立斗争。具有讽刺意味的是,他们之所以默默无闻,恰恰是因为西方在最近的危机中发挥了不知情的角色,而且因为维族人曾经占领了已知世界的中心,而他们的文化正在走向衰落。

Xinjiang sits in the middle of Asia, encircled by some of Earth's highest mountains, as though a drawstring had cinched the top of the world like a coin purse. Passes through those snowy mountains funneled ancient traders and travelers along paths that became the renowned Silk Road. "They say it is the highest place in the world," Marco Polo wrote of climbing the Pamir mountains from the Afghanistan side. When he emerged from the pass, he found the Uygur homeland and marveled: "From this country, many merchants go forth about the world."

新疆位于亚洲中部,四周环绕着地球最高的山脉,就像一个硬币钱包,一条束带拉紧顶部。古代商人和旅行者通过这些雪山的路径,成为著名的丝绸之路。 “他们说这是世界上最高的地方,”马可波罗从阿富汗一侧登上帕米尔山区后写道。当他越过山口,他发现了维吾尔人的家园,并且惊叹:“许多商人从这个国家去了解世界。”

The territory became the fulcrum on which Asia and Europe balanced. Turkic raiders and later Genghis Khan, Buddhists and then Muslims, traders and tribesmen, missionaries and monks—all passed through this hemispheric crossroads, and each group left something of itself. I saw a Uygur woman wearing a Muslim head cover and holding her baby, whose head she had shaved into phantasmagoric designs, a pre-Islamic shamanistic practice to frighten away baby-stealing evil spirits. Xinjiang's history is also written in the faces of its people: dark faces with oval eyes. Also fair faces with narrow, jet eyes. And sometimes blue eyes with blond hair.

该地区成为平衡亚洲和欧洲的支点。突厥战士和后来的成吉思汗,佛教徒,然后是穆斯林,商人和游牧民,传教士和僧侣,都经过了这个半球的十字路口,而每一种人离开时都留下了一点自己的东西。我看到一个戴着穆斯林头巾的维族妇女抱着她的孩子,孩子的头部被剃成幽灵的图案,这是早期伊斯兰萨满教的做法,为了吓跑偷盗婴儿的恶鬼。新疆的历史也写在新疆人的脸上:较深的肤色和椭圆形的眼睛。也有白皮肤和细长眼睛。有的有金发和蓝眼睛。

Geography itself protects the mosaic of Uygur culture in Hotan, in far southwestern Xinjiang. A range of snowcapped mountains rises at the town's back, and before it lies the Taklimakan, a desert larger than Poland, which people sometimes call the Sea of Death. Hotan's inhabitants are mostly farmers, and many of them come together each Sunday outside the town for a bazaar where children eat sweetened ice shaved from chunks that float down the Karakax (Black Jade) River, women browse tents full of silk, and men gather to have their beards trimmed while they tell jokes.

远在新疆西南部的和田,地理学本身保护了维吾尔文化的镶嵌工艺。和田市背后是一系列高耸的白雪皑皑的山脉,前边是面积比波兰还大的塔克拉玛干沙漠,人们有时称之为死亡之海。和田的居民大多是农民,不少人每周日一起到城外参加巴扎,孩子们吃着从喀拉喀什(黑玉)河浮冰上刮下来的,加了糖的冰霜;妇女进进出出一个个装满丝绸的帐篷;而男子们聚在一起修剪胡须,一边讲笑话。

It's an old scene, although there is an occasional sign of technology: Knifemakers sit in long rows on ancient bicycles they've reconfigured to spin grindstones, looking like an invading horde of spark-spitting cyclists. A young Uygur man named Otkur (the names of Uygurs in Xinjiang have been changed for their protection) shared his bowl of sheep's lung with me, and afterward we approached an astonishing device: a two-story-high swing set with a seat big enough for two people to stand on. Otkur smiled. "For playing," he said. Two women climbed onto the ends of the seat and swung so high they disappeared into tree branches.

这是一个古老的场景,虽然偶尔有技术的痕迹:制刀者坐成长长一排,经过重新配置的古老的自行车旋转着磨刀石,看起来像一大群吐着火花的自行车手。一位名为澳提克尔的年轻的维族男子(为了安全,新疆维族人的名字在这里都改了)跟我分享他的一碗羊肺,后来我们走到一个令人惊讶的装置跟前:一个两层高的秋千,座位之大足够两个人站立。澳提克尔笑了。 “用来玩的,”他说。两名女子爬上了座位的两端,她们荡得那么高,都消失在树枝后边了。

In town I met Dawud, a music master who teaches a small group of students. In his school a large mural showed a mashrap, a traditional all-male gathering—now closely regulated by the Chinese—where Uygurs convene to play music, recite poetry, and socialize. Dawud fashioned a fingerpick from a piece of wire and some twine, flicked his fingers across the five strings of a tambur, and launched into a series of complex songs with roots that reach back at least five centuries.

在市区我遇到达悟,他是教授一小群学生的音乐大师。在他的学校,一幅大壁画画着mashrap,一个传统的男子聚会,在那里人们放音乐,朗诵诗歌,和社交。mashrap现在被中国人密切监视着。达悟表演一个用电线和细绳做成的指环,挥动五指弹奏弹不拉琴的五根弦,奏出一系列复杂的歌曲,这些歌曲的历史最早可追溯到5个世纪前。

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